To approach the Great Smoky Mountains from Tennessee, through Seiverville, Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, is to run a non-stop gauntlet of American tourist kitsch—from “Ripley’s Haunted Adventure” and “The Museum of Muscle Cars,” to the roaring tigers of “Magic Beyond Belief” and the red, white and blue buckaroo madness of “Dolly Pardon’s Dixie Stampede.”

But once you cross over into North Carolina on US Highway 441 at Newfound Gap, all that changes. From this point on locals are fond of saying, you’ve entered “the quiet side of the Smokies.” And while the current downturn in the economy has caused many small businesses in the region to close their doors, the picturesque town of Bryson City is flourishing. That’s because the town and its surrounding mountains offer a perfect combination of low impact tourist attractions for the entire family— whether your taste runs toward whitewater rafting and back country hiking, or the chance to ride on one of the most famous trains in the world.

“It’s Thomas!” shrieks a youngster tugging so hard on his mother’s arm it’s practically torn from its socket. The “Thomas” he’s referring to is Thomas the Tank Engine, star of the animated British television series. But here he is in Bryson City— full-size, puffing smoke and steam, his big grinning face and brightly colored paint job a joy to behold.

Thomas’s visit to Bryson City this summer was part of the “Day Out With Thomas” program (operated by HiT Entertainment). And for those youngsters that had the opportunity to ride their favorite train, it was an experience they’ll not soon forget.

Thomas has now chugged on to his next whistle stop. But Bryson City remains a railroader’s Mecca, offering a wide variety of year-round rail excursions: from mystery dinner trains and excursions along the Tuckasegee River to the quaint town of Dillsboro, to the town’s annual Christmas recreation of “The Polar Express” (Nov. 3-Dec. 23).

Another attraction of the Bryson City Depot is the Smoky Mountain Trains museum, which showcases the remarkable collection of model trains assembled by local real estate developer, Tim Cooper. This impressive collection includes 7000 Lionel engines, cars and accessories, as well as two highly detailed operating layouts.

One of Bryson City’s most popular train trips during the summer is the “Raft & Rail” excursion. This trip offers a two-hour ride on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad deep into the Nantahala River Gorge, after which adventurous river runners take to rafts and run 8-miles of the river ending at the Nantahala Outdoor Center.

The rapids of the Nantahala are, with a few exceptions, modest, making it ideal for families. A number of whitewater companies offer organized trips, including the capable guides of Wildwater Ltd. Rafting. It’s a beautiful ride through dense woods of pines, poplars, oaks and maples accentuated by the bracing thrill of shooting the rapids.

There are plenty of traditional motels in and around Bryson City. But the Watershed Cabins offer a unique alternative for about the same cost. These modern, luxurious log cabins feature all the amenities of home, including full kitchens, laundry, fireplaces and sumptuous outdoor hot tubs. But unlike the beehive nature of motel living, each Watershed cabin is strategically sited on 50 acres of private land. They offer an ideal mountain escape for families or adults in search of a romantic getaway.

The only problem we encountered was the rough and steep nature of the gravel access road. When asked about the condition, Watershed Cabin’s owner, Tim Goodwin, said the company is planning to put in a new road in order to avoid this section completely.
Other than the wheel-spinning experience of getting up the hill to our cabin, our stay— serenaded at night by a rambunctious chorus of chirping birds, croaking tree frogs and buzzing cicadas— was idyllic.

There’s even a fine place to enjoy a sunset dinner or a restful lunch. Relia’s Garden (located at the Nantahala Outdoor Center) describes itself as, “A sophisticated dining experience with distinctive Southern flair.”

Founded in the 1980s by Aurelia Kennedy (wife of ace river runner, Payson Kennedy, who was a stunt advisor during the shooting of “Deliverance”) the restaurant was designed to offer weary river runners a nice place to chow down.

The restaurant’s new home is an elegant wooden structure in the craftsman tradition with airy balconies that offer a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains, ideal for sunset dining.

The menu features such items as delectable buttermilk fried chicken; crab cakes with fried green tomatoes; shrimp and grits; and a pan-seared trout dusted with herbs from the restaurant’s garden that is highly acclaimed. With our meal we enjoyed a crisp “organic” white wine from South Africa with the whimsical name, “Live a Little Wildly Wicked Wine.” The only disappointment was a decidedly rubbery peach cobbler— and this at the height of peach season!

In talking with the locals, I discovered that the majority of visitors to the region come from North and South Carolina, Georgia and Florida. But no matter where you live, you might want to consider Bryson City and the quiet side of the Smokies for a different type of mountain adventure.

If You Go

For general information: Swain County Chamber of Commerce, 210 Main St., Bryson City, NC, 28713. (800) 867-9246 or www.greatsmokies.com.

Great Smoky Mountain Railroad adventures: (800) 872-4681 or www.gsmr.com.

Smoky Mountain Trains Museum, 100 Greenlee St., Bryson City, NC, 28713. (828) 488-5200 or www.smokymountaintrains.com.

Wildwater Ltd. Rafting.
P.O. Box 309
Long Creek, SC, 29658
(877) 451-9972 or www.wildwaterrafting.com.
The company offers rafting and kayak trips on several local rivers.


Watershed Cabins
300 Everett St., Bryson City, NC, 28713.
(888) 604-3075 or www.watershedcabins.com.
Offering one to five bedroom cabins. Rates (depending on time of year) begin at $120 for the economy “Treehouse” units, to $490 (high season) for a five-bedroom cabin.

Relia’s Garden
Nantahala Outdoor Center
13077 Highway 19 West Bryson City, NC, 28713.
(828) 488-7176.