Trains run by the Italian State Railways (FS) are what most people expect to ride on in Italy. But, that is false. With over 30 private railways scattered around and about the country, Italy has more private railways than any other European country. (See IRT no. 181).

One such private railway is in the exotic southern Italian region of Puglia. In the picturesque area south of Lecce along the Adriatic Sea and towards the heel of the Italian pointed boot, is the almost 300 mile long Ferrovia del Sud-Est (FSE). It operates diesel trains over standard gauge tracks throughout Puglia. Founded in the early 1930s as an amalgamation of several small Puglia private railways, the FSE runs venerable locomotive hauled and self- propelled rail diesel (RDC) trains from Bari to Taranto and from Lecce throughout the Salento region to Otranto, Gallipoli and Taranto. (Note that Brindisi Centrale station halfway between Bari and Lecce is not served by the FSE.) FSE trains wind and weave their way slowly on a mostly single track railway through one of Europe’s most exotic landscapes.

I recently traveled aboard FSE trains and found them rustic but a fine means of transport for the short distances involved. The sheer quantity of graffiti covering many FSE trains is hard to believe but that doesn’t seem to effect operations – just be careful to avoid windows covered with the stuff.

I knew the FSE was not the FS at Lecce when I tried to change from sleek FS Eurostar 9411 to an FSE train to Otranto. A mimeographed sheet with a hand drawn arrow on it pointed to the FSE ticket office located at the north end of platform 3 (down through the subterranean passage to the end of the tunnel then right, up the stairs to the far end of the platform).

But there is something to be said for a slow, leisurely train-trip. I especially liked being able to open the windows and stare at Puglia’s subtle scenery. The peculiar conic stone buildings unique to Puglia called trulli are strikingly visible from FSE trains – especially around Martina Franca.

One major disadvantage of Puglia train travel is that the railway follows the low lands. There are few tunnels piercing through the hard limestone hills. Rail lines skirt hills and weave around vineyards and olive groves while old whitewashed stone towns are perched on hilltops – the better to protect themselves from the raiders and marauders who preyed on the area after the fall of Rome led to a very long period of anarchy and chaos in the region. One example is the attractive hilltop town of Locorotondo. It is barely visible from the FSE station and trekking to it in the intense heat of July and August is not recommended.

Another disadvantage is that often a change of trains is required – even for short trips: Lecce – Otranto is 30 minutes by car but one hour by train (a change is required at Maglie) whereas serene Gallipoli is also one hour away but twice the distance from Lecce (46 miles).

Gallipoli appealed greatly to me. Situated on the Ionian Sea coast it has good FSE service from Bari and Lecce (but a change is required for Taranto) into its massive sandstone station. The station is within a short walk of the maze-like old town founded by Greek settlers in the 6th Century BCE. Be forewarned though that it could be hard to find a FSE ticket seller at mid-day. The best place to look for one is in the shade of the railway platform 1 shelter near the refreshment stand.

Industrial Taranto should also be visited for its excellent archeological museum and well-preserved old city. Rail aficionados will enjoy the action at the main station where FS and FSE trains call.

In general, the FSE provides an excellent means to discover the traditional scenery of one of Italy’s most exotic regions. But, do not expect sleek trains operating on state-of-the-art tracks.












Though not mentioned by name nor shown on the map, some FSE schedules (Bari-Taranto) are included in Thomas Cook’s European Timetable as an adjunct to Table 630.

The FSE’ own website: www.fseonline.it and the Italian Railfan’s Page: www.i-ra.org/priv/fse.html have much more complete info on the FSE than can be found in the TCET.

Though the FSE does not honor Eurail Passes they can be used on FS trains to Bari, Lecce or Taranto. For information and tickets on FS, FSE and other European railway services not covered by the Society of International Railway Travelers try: www.raileurope.com or telephone: 1-888 382 7245.

The Rough Guide series of travel guides does a very good job dealing with railways and the Rough Guide to Italy (7th edition-May 2005) is no exception. Check the website for ordering details: www.roughguides.com.