Greece’s Hellenic Railways Organization (OSE) and Turkey’s State Railways (TCDD) recently inaugurated a new all sleeping car only train between Thessaloniki and Istanbul. Initiated and shepherded through at high ministerial level in both countries and for reasons of political goodwill, economic development potential (there are no direct flights between the two cities) and European Union brownie points, the two normally antagonistic Balkan neighbors have cooperated in creating the train named The Friendship Express. The over 510 mile trip is scheduled for 11.5 hours. But timekeeping has not been good enough to maintain this schedule in the first several weeks.

When I heard the news, I knew I had to ride this train between the two cities that shared so much history - ancient and modern. But, I did so with trepidation.

While heading toward the giant station’s platform number 1, I remembered the first time I rode this line. In the murky mists of a rather cold, early 1980s December, the night train to Istanbul consisted of a single, worn and dirty second-class sit-up coach attached to the front of a longer train that was bound only for the Greek-Bulgarian frontier town of Ormenio. The few foreigners there assembled in one of the mid-car compartments and created a cocoon of blankets and sleeping bags.

At the Greek border town of Pithio the lonely car was detached from the train and sat at the edge of the Greek world on the Turkish border. Greek customs inspectors then boarded, created an enormous hubbub and shouted everyone off onto the platform. But it being very cold and well past midnight, we foreigners, wouldn’t budge. When the customs inspector began to shout at us – an arm shot up from under the covers thrusting six passports at him. But, we still refused to budge. We couldn’t sleep though with all the commotion, shouting and searches on the platform. Eventually the inspectors were satisfied and everyone reboarded. Our relief at starting to roll again was soon spoiled when the same tedious procedure was repeated at Turkish customs!

Looking up from my reminiscences, I stopped suddenly when I saw the long train of gleaming, white TCDD sleeping-cars on platform 1. I couldn’t help smiling broadly when the attendant showed me to my air-conditioned room. It all looked too good to be true: with a sink in the corner, a small fridge and full width bed. So far so good I thought. settling into my compartment with a book to watch the city glide by after the train’s departure.

The 8 PM departure on my mid-July trip allowed enough daylight to admire the countryside of a part of Greece few tourists rarely see. It would have been preferable to do so from an on-board restaurant or bar/lounge, but unfortunately, though even with very good sleeping cars, there was no common space for passengers to gather except the side aisle corridor. Attendants graciously offered coffee and other beverages hot and cold, but it just wasn’t the same without a lounge space.

Nightfall found me retreating to my snug bed. It certainly felt comfortable and I was soon lulled to sleep despite an occasional jolt as the train’s locomotive driver found his rhythm with the long train. Suddenly there came a loud knocking on my locked door waking me abruptly. Greek customs officials had begun their checks and controls that I remembered so well from the first trip way back when and that I hoped wouldn’t happen again. Well, they did happen and all passengers were disturbed, but at least no one was ejected from the train and subjected to the kinds of searches of yore. After what seemed an interminable delay, the train started to move again, but soon came to a quick halt. This must be the Turkish border control I thought. My premonitions were soon answered with more loud knocking.

When the train started rolling again, the ride felt smoother – most likely because we were not traveling as fast. But after the double border commotion, it took some time to lull me back to sleep. I couldn’t help wondering why the attendants didn’t lift passports before departure at Thessaloniki then return them before arrival at Istanbul. After all this is the procedure followed in most European sleeping car services.

I awoke just after daybreak and saw the train gliding along the shore of the Sea of Marmara. Soon afterwards the train passed through the massive outer Byzantine walls and began the slow approach to its Sirkeci Station terminus. I spent the last half hour of the trip moving from one side of the car to the other so as to view as many sights as possible in what is one of the world’s most exciting railway entrances to a major city. A brief glimpse on the left of the Topkapi Palace followed by an equally brief glimpse of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn on the right meant that Sirkeci wasn’t far.

Sirkeci Station was once home to the legendary Orient Express train. Now, the best train to use Istanbul’s very convenient center city station is the Friendship Express.

Walking away from the train I noticed the many banners and posters throughout the Istanbul station promoting the Friendship Express. I couldn’t help sensing the Turkish desire to see the night train succeed, but my feelings were that, despite the train’s comfort, the regular and interminable late night border formalities would impede success.

For further information on this train and other Greek railway passenger services: www.ose.gr. This site is in English or readers can refer to the Thomas Cook European Timetable (table 1420).

Though Eurail Passes are valid in Greece they are not in Turkey and all sleeping card supplements must be paid by the passenger traveling. For information on all the above please contact Rail Europe: www.raileurope.com or telephone: 1 888 382 7245.

Some trips on this route use Greek OSE sleeping cars instead of Turkish TCDD equipment. Though it is possible to find out which cars are being used on which night, it isn’t easy to determine this and trains can be changed without much notice depending on traffic loadings and maintenance procedures.

For a fine meal in the Sirkeci Station Istanbul, try The Orient Express Restaurant: tel: +902125222080; fax: +902125135109; or info@orientexpressrestaurant.com and website: www.orientexpressrestaurant.com