I have always enjoyed dining in train station restaurants. My favorite is, of course, Le Train Bleu in Paris’ Gare de Lyon but following closely is the Oyster Bar in New York City’s Grand Central Terminal. Though I rarely use Grand Central as a train station anymore, I like going there for the Oyster Bar (and the NYC Transit Museum.)

The Oyster Bar is a landmark within a landmark. Since it first opened in 1913 (when the Terminal did), it has established itself as an icon of New York. Brash, bustling, loud and as grand as the train station it is identified with, it offers an encyclopedic range of oysters and fresh seafood on its menu which changes daily.

Stepping through the double glass doors into the basement restaurant, I’m immediately struck by the aromas of freshly shucked oysters, New England and Manhattan clam chowders and a variety of freshly grilled fish. Then, the bustle and movement catch my eyes and ears. Don’t be mistaken. Despite the intimate nature of the place, it is a sprawling 450 seat, 27000 square foot behemoth of a restaurant.

If I’m only in town for a quick visit I turn right into the vast counter top area and take a stool near the marble-tiled oyster pit so I can hear the constant prattle from the shuckers as they open a seemingly endless quantity of fresh local produce. If I’m in the city for a longer visit, I turn left at the entrance and allow myself to be led to a small table under one of the brick lined barrel vaults designed by architect Rafael Guastavino. There I’ll dine at a spotlessly clean table covered by a well starched, red and white checked, tablecloth and linger over a bottle of crispy, clean Italian Pinot Grigio wine (one of over 220 fine choices on the excellent wine list) and observe a lively dining room that seems to have stayed the same as the day it first opened 91 years ago.

Surprisingly, the dining room has changed since it first welcomed diners. A disastrous mid-1997s fire closed the venerable establishment. Owner James Brody’s wish was to re-open as quickly as possible without altering the dining room’s classic look. This was done in a surprisingly quick time to the delight of the Oyster Bar’s many regular patrons.

I look forward to digging into the freshly, on-premises, baked biscuits and breads served in a wicker basket by a polite, unobtrusive waiter. Munching on the biscuits, that seem to melt in my mouth, gives me time to peruse the menu. As a starter, I cannot resist the Oyster (long Island Blue Points – of course) Stew – served as it is with toast points.

Afterwards, I let myself be enticed by the large selection of fresh seafood specials. I know that Executive Chef Sandy Ingber is an early morning regular at the Fulton Street Fish Market in downtown Manhattan and I revel over his comments that: “ninety percent of what I buy each morning is consumed that day, so people are getting the freshest seafood available.” I find it hard to resist his recommendations. To finish my meal I find it impossible to resist a generous slice of creamy New York cheesecake served with a strawberry coulis, made as often as possible with fresh New York strawberries.

Lingering over a steaming cup of freshly brewed Arabica based coffee, I pause to put my experience into perspective. I find it comforting that the Oyster Bar is so friendly but extremely professional. General Manager Michael Garvey can often be seen in the dining room verifying that his patrons are happy and satisfied. I can find absolutely nothing wrong with the Oyster Bar – except that I cannot get-up, cross the vast Grand Central concourse and tuck myself into a bed aboard an overnight train bound for somewhere.

For information and reservations at the Oyster Bar go to: www.oysterbarny.com or telephone 212 490-6650, fax: 212 949-5210. If a somewhat noisy table in the central part of the main dining area could be disturbing, ask to not sit in tables: 0, 1, 2 in rows 20-70. The Oyster Bar is open for lunch & Dinner on Mondays through Saturdays.

For guided tours of Grand Central Terminal, contact:

Every Wednesday at 12:30pm with The Municipal Art Society of New York, 457 Madison Avenue, NY, NY 10022 or telephone 212 935-3960 or on the web: www.mas.org. This 90-minute tour has a suggested donation of $10;

Every Friday at 12:30pm with The Grand Central Partnership. Call 212 883-2420 or on the web: www.grandcentralpartnership.org. This 90-minute tour is free;

Several other groups, such as: Sunflower Tours (718 884-0132) and Adventures on a Shoestring (212 265-2663) also propose visits to the Terminal.

While in Grand Central, visit the New York Transit Museum Gallery Annex & Store in the shuttle Passage adjacent to the Station Master’s Office at 42nd Street and Park Avenue. Telephone: 212 878 0106 or on the web: www.mta.info.