Maine is possibly the bed and breakfast capital of the world and Rockland has gone to great lengths to promote their historic inns. Recently, I had the opportunity to stay for two days at the beautiful, turreted mansion known as the Lime Rock Inn. This old Victorian house, tucked away on a quiet street, is an exquisite example of Queen Anne architecture, featuring two front parlors, spacious guest rooms and an inviting wrap-around front porch and landscaped gardens. Because it is located within strolling distance of the historic downtown area, the Farnsworth museum, great restaurants and the waterfront, we were able to park the car and explore the town on foot.

There are eight guest rooms in the Inn. All offer a private bath. Room décor varies from luxurious and ornate to cottage-style charm. Our room had a claw-foot style soaking tub and separate shower…..great for a hot relaxing bubble-bath. A wood burning fireplace and two-person whirlpool tub are found in the Grand Manan room, the Inn’s premier guest room on the first floor. The common areas feature an assortment of magazines and newspapers and are cozy conversation areas. And tucked away just off the kitchen is a computer with free secure wireless internet access for those who can’t completely leave the real world behind.

Our hosts, Frank and P.J have a simple outlook on good food and fine dining. They believe that only two kinds of people exist in the world…”those who eat to live, and those who live to eat.” They are lifetime members of the latter group and have arranged their sunny dining room to be the perfect setting for their delicious and creative breakfast creations. Eggs Benedict, Belgium waffles and buttermilk pancakes are among the “classics.”

For dinner our first night, P.J. suggested that we try a small restaurant on main street called “In Good Company” that is a local favorite. It was an excellent selection. Their “mission statement” printed at the bottom of their menu reads in part like this: “One must eat and drink only good things that are genuine and simple, in moderate amounts and in good company.” My Copper River Salmon with local purple potatoes accompanied by a crisp white wine, certainly met those standards.

Early the next morning, after one of Frank’s inspiring breakfasts, we set forth to explore Rockland. We took a quick tour of the Maine Lighthouse Museum which offers the largest collection of lighthouse artifacts in the world. This was great preparation for our visit to the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse which is located at the end of a mile long breakwater where seagulls and seals entertain you as you stroll.

We didn’t have far to go to board a real live working lobster boat operated by Captain Steve Hale. Captain Steve, whose boat is named the Captain Jack after his seven year old grandson, was a wealth of information. Although it was early in the season, there were three lobsters in his traps. One young female had thousands of eggs tucked beneath her tail. Captain Steve, knew immediately that she had never been caught before. He cut a small “V” in her tail and told us that she was now branded as a egg producing female and for her entire life, she will never be able to be caught and kept. All egg bearing females must be released whether they currently have eggs or not. I was impressed.

For lunch, we went to “The Catch of the Day” restaurant and ate, what else but lobster rolls. Delicious.

The afternoon went quickly as we strolled through the renowned Farnsworth Art Museum and Wyeth Art Center eventually ending up at the Puffin Visitor Center on Main Street.

We started early in the morning to visit two other Historic Inns in Rockland. The Berry Manor Inn is among Maine's most romantic bed and breakfast inns. The Inn has eight rooms in the main house and another four in the Carriage house. Each of the rooms is uniquely decorated in the warm, rich colors of the Victorian era and furnished with a blend of antique and period reproductions. They offer a host of amenities for everyone from those seeking a romantic getaway to business travelers. This unusual house, which was a center of grand and gracious hospitality for more than a century, is still today, offering a warm welcome to visitors.

Another lovely English Inn is the Captain Lindsey House, owned and operated by Captains Ken and Ellen Barnes, who for many years owned and operated the Stephen Taber- the oldest documented schooner still in service. This gracious Inn has nine guestrooms, a large and elegant parlor and a lovely backyard garden terrace. Gorgeous antiques and Persian rugs, amidst modern amenities offer today's traveler a combination of history and convenience. Located very near the main street, guests can walk to fine dining or harbor activities.

Our second dining experience was the exact opposite of the previous night, but also excellent. We went to Café Miranda which was packed when we arrived with people waiting outside on the porch. The menu featured 104 items and our charming waitress informed us that they were all available with the exception of two. We had finished nearly a whole bottle of wine by the time we read the entire menu. In the end we ended up sharing some curried mussels,” mexi salad, lamb "wowie” and crispy Asian duck. With all the funky names we were not sure exactly what we were ordering but it was all great. Apparently no one bothered to tell them about moderate quantities and very few people left without “people bags.” The extensive menu did not include any desserts, but I am sure they were available for those with much larger appetites than ours.

On our last day, we again had a gourmet breakfast, said goodby to Frank and P.J, picked up a box lunch at the Atlantic Baking Company and boarded one of the historic schooners for a three hour eco-tour of Penobscot Bay. It was a perfect day for a brisk sail and a lovely way to end our vacation in Rockland. I cannot imagine a more beautiful place than Maine in June…..except maybe Maine in October when the leaves are changing color. I shall have to return to find out.

contact information: Lime Rock Inn- info@LimeRockInn.com
Berry Manor Inn- info@Berrymanorinn.com
Captain Lindsey House- Lindseyhouse.com