“Tokyo? No place like it on earth! Expensive, but definitely unique.”

That was the usual response given when I told well-traveled friends of my then-upcoming trip to the land of the rising sun.

Of course, the option to be a big spender is always open in any brightly-lit big city but I guess I got lucky in Tokyo. Not only did fellow adventurer Brendan and I manage to sniff out great cost-cutting deals (some of which we only discovered at the end of the trip), we did so at no expense to our fun and comfort.

Lesson number one: stay with a friend in a typical suburb away from town.

I duly note that this option may not be for everyone. In such a case, I would say it is a loss to them; perhaps a more plausible option would be a traditional ryokan or inn. Nothing beats Japanese hospitality or experiencing at least a day in a typical Japanese household, where breakfast prepeared by Grandma is a large bowl of homemade miso soup with beancurd chunks, handwrapped onigiri (triangular rice dumpling) and edamame and fresh cherry tomatoes on the side.

It’s quite apparent that compact and functionality are key for the city-slicking Japaneses. Most single Tokyoites live in an apartment resembling nothing more than a shoebox: hall converts to living and dining area, a loft to stow away storage or the occassional guest and the washer squashed right next to the cooker in front of the loo. Having more than two people present in the space would be a challenge but Brendan and I managed that on the last day, when flat-owner Mei, who kindly loaned us the appaato while away on her own vacation, ventured back a day early.

Lesson number two: stick with the food locals eat.

No doubt, if you can splurge for a five-star Kaiseki meal, do so. But if you choose not to, there is still plenty of other varieties of local munchies to sample. As our sole mission was to “make like the natives”, Brendan and I found ourselves mostly in the 100-yen stores (snacks and desserts galore, not to mention cheap and good souveniers) and quaintly efficient “vending-machine” restaurants.

Whether it is ramen noodles or curry rice on the menu, the procedure is the same and idiot-proof: choose a picture of the dish of your choice on the machine, put in the required amount, retrieve the receipt and present it st the counter. Said dish can then be either collected or served to you. Affordable (no more than Y800), fast and good hot food.

The great thing we discovered in Tokyo was that all restaurants we patronised served complimentary (and refillable!) ice-water or hot green tea with our meals. This certainly sweetened the deal for us, making every mouthful a real delight.

Also, know that the only way to experience Sashimi is fresh, at the Tsukiji Fish Market in the wee hours of a rainy morning. Brendan and I decided that we would have breakfast before witnessing the fish auctions, and judging later from the sight of the poor fish, it was a good call.

Chancing upon a tiny home-grown restaurant, Yamahone, with an English menu turned out to be a boon. The assorted Sashimi platter was staggeringly abundant: I sampled large slices of fresh Tuna, Mackerel, Pike, Octopus and Cod Roe. The set also came with the requisite miso soup in a large bowl (so not reminiscent of local Japanese restaurants!), pickles, rice bowl and green tea for Y1,200 (less than S$20).

The English and Spanish-speaking Japanese owner also threw in a potted course in conversational Japanese while we waited to be served. Apparently, he does this for all his guests, as evidenced by his ‘guestbooks’ – a collection of fullscap paper sheets glued together with photos.

Lesson number three: always be prepared

The Tokyo subway train systems are so comprehensive (there are more than three different operators all requiring diferent sets of passes) that it takes more than a day or two to get used to the way things work. Unfortunately and rather ironically, it is also the best way for a first-timer or non-native speaker to travel in Tokyo, so take the path of least resistance: get a stored value ticket, namely the Suica pass for the JR line and the Passnet for the Tokyo Metro line.

Both work like the Ezy-link tap card system in Singapore.

There are other types of tourist passes like the JR Tokunai one-day pass for Y700 yen which Brendan and I failed to master (it came as two cards, one for entering and one for exiting stations but you must tell the conductor which station you are headed to and from) and other types like the Tokyo Metro two-day pass, which are only available at the airport terminals.

The trains move fast (so distance is covered quicker) and are always on schedule, so everyone tries to squeeze in. Don’t expect any apologies when someone elbows or bumps against you during rush-hour. Even the station-masters will stand on the platform, helping to shove people in through the closing doors of the train.

The train services in Tokyo end around midnight, which explains the kind of activities and institutions the culture has become famous for, namely Karaoke, love hotels, capsule hotels and Pachinko parlours. And all this because people would rather stay out all night than spring money for an expensive cab ride home.

But of course, this just serves to create the kind of nightlife many people believe to be the essence of city-living in Tokyo, thanks to movies like Lost In Translation. Bright, larger than life, sensationally entertaining but always in transition. The fact that there are large lockers at the train stations for people who always seem to be dragging around suitcases is a testament to this.

Brendan and I took full advantage and stayed out all night for day three of our stay there. Our reward: the bright lights of Shibuya, hot sake at an all-night restaurant and a rollicking time at a dive of a hip-hop club called Shibuya Nuts (cover charge Y3000 for one drink), where the party was heating up just as we left at 5 am on a Monday morning.

Lesson number three: soak in the atmosphere

The city makes a great backdrop for good pictures and I’m not talking about having Mount Fuji in the distance from Tokyo Tower.

Most notably impressive to me were the architechture and Japanese aesthetic we saw in shops, from the display windows to the merchandise itself. I took great pleasure in photographing ‘It’ buildings like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Loewe in Aoyama, and sneaking a snap or two at Omotesando Hills, an upscale Japanese mall.

Strolling in Harajuku on a Sunday is also an absolute must, if only to witness the parade of goth-punk and anime cosplay kids on the way back from the Togo Shrine. While you’re there, get the best of trendy Japanese fashion at the innumerable shops in the back alleys, selling fashionwear from socks to frilly costume aprons.

Then switch to old-world Japanese charm with a trip to Asakusa, where the main draw is the majestic Senso-ji Buddhist temple. From all over the world, Buddhists and non-Buddhists gather to pay respects to Kannon (Kuan Im, Goddess of Mercy) by praying, lighting a candle, shaking the fortune sticks and bathing their hands and faces with the holy water from the fountain. There is a great sense of ritual in the air, even though most of the visitors are tourists.

No Japanese trip would be complete without a visit to the Onsen or hot-spring bath. The experience was an eye-opener indeed or should I say a test in keeping one’s eyes from straying. The baths were a bare-all public affair and although the Oedo Onsen Monogatari (Y1,900 after 6pm) that I went to in Odaiba was gender-segregated, it may still be a little too hot to handle for the more conservative among us.

Still, sitting still in the therapeutic, mineral-rich hot waters is a traditional Japanese activity (for an even more authentic experience, venture to Hakone, an hour away from Tokyo) enjoyed as a family outing or even a date. What better way to soak up the weird and wonderful in Tokyo.