I thought I knew what to expect on my first trip to Moab, in southern Utah. I’ve seen images of the famous redrock canyon lands in everything from old westerns and television commercials to Bon Jovi videos and geography books. Thelma and Louise drove off one of these cliffs, John Wayne fought Indians here, and Michael J. Fox went Back to the Future again to find Doc in the Wild West. But nothing prepared me for the overwhelming visual presence and sheer age of this desert that was once inhabited only by dinosaurs.

Time seems to stand still in Moab, petrified like the sand dunes and the three-toed dinosaur footprints on its striated cliffs. The geology of the world is laid bare in the multi-colored layers of rock, and the history of the Old West, the last Native American stronghold in the country, is carved on the canyon walls. The Mormons tried and failed to colonize this harsh land in the early 19th century, and it’s only been in the past 100 years, that man has found a way to survive in Moab. Today, with a population of about 4000, the only town in Utah on the Colorado River is an outdoor adventure destination and tourism is its primary industry. Whether you cycle or hike, kayak or canoe, are a climber or a cowgirl, Moab offers a wide range of activities from mild to wild.

Getting There is Half the Fun

There’s no easy way to get to Moab, unless you live out west and can drive. Flyers have to go to either Salt Lake City or Grand Junction in Colorado, and rent a car to drive the rest of way. While Grand Junction, a United hub, is just 2 hours away, more daily flights on several of the major airlines fly to Salt Lake, so I ended up doing the drive from there. I spent a pleasant evening at the Salt Lake City Hilton, exploring Temple Square and downtown Salt Lake, all just a few blocks away from the hotel which was diagonally across the street from a familiar sight, the 2002 Olympic Media Headquarters. I took the advice of the concierge and mapped my route down to Moab on Interstate I-70. Although it’s about an hour longer than taking the more direct Route 6, locals advised against the twisty two-lane mountain shortcut. Even though it turned a four hour drive into five, it was a perfect introduction to Utah, beginning in snow-capped mountains which bled slowly into the national forest and then, around one staggering bend, a vista of red rock is laid out before you as far as the eye can see. Carved in bold slashes by mother nature’s hand and whittled into whimsical shapes by the winds and the waters of time, the canyon lands are simply mind-boggling. The scenic overlooks every few miles with intriguing names like Devil’s Canyon and Ghost Rock are impossible to pass up, even if you’re not a photographer with an itchy shutter button finger.

After hours of one adrenaline rush after another, I started to worry that Moab would be a let down, and at first, as I approached the town on Route 191, I felt a surge of disappointment. But when I crossed the Colorado River and turned down Highway 128 to head for Red Cliffs Lodge, I realized that instead of looking at these incredible rocky red cliffs and gaping canyons from afar, I was now engulfed in them.

On Location at Red Cliffs Lodge
Since the turn of the century, Red Cliffs has been a working ranch whose location on the banks of the Colorado River made it a perfect site for cattle and horses. Original owner, George White, also knew it was a perfect location for the burgeoning film industry in the 1940’s, so he founded the Moab to Monument Valley Film Commission to promote the area’s scenic potential to Hollywood. In John Ford’s Rio Grande, John Wayne led his troops into the “ fort” at Red Cliffs Ranch, and visitors can hike or ride to many other locations for films ranging from the classic Ford westerns to modern day movies like Thelma and Louise, Mission Impossible II, City Slickers II, and Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Tons of television commercials, television series, and music videos have also used the rocky canyons and dramatic outcropping known as Fisher Towers as a backdrop. If you’ve ever seen a hot sports car on top of a rocky cliff, it was probably shot in Moab. Today, the official Moab-Monument Valley Film Museum, which is free and open to the public daily, is housed on the lower floor of the Lodge’s main building.

Western décor of hand-built log furniture and Saltillo tile floors combined with modern amenities including DSL, a kitchenette, private patio, and comfy bath amenities are what make this property the best of both the Old and New West. All suites have either a river or canyon view, and the Lodge’s latest business venture, the Castle Creek Winery, offers complimentary wine tastings every afternoon. Red Cliffs also offers hiking, biking, horseback riding, and kayaking on property, in addition to a pool, workout room, and full service restaurant. Even if you’re not staying at the Lodge, you can sign up for any of the activities, visit the film museum, and drop by for the wine tastings.

As I sat on the patio of my riverfront suite, watching a turkey vulture soar gracefully over the rocky red promontory, the Colorado River drifted swiftly by, occasionally carrying with it a kayak or two. It was hard to leave this idyllic setting, but my 4 p.m. trail ride was ready to saddle up so I headed for the corral.

Redcliff’s professional cowgirls, Theresa and Melissa, gave our group a quick lesson on mounting, neck reining, and controlling our horses and after a few turns around the paddock, we headed down the creek bed, crossing under the road to reach the rocky canyon where John Wayne used to ride when he was a guest at the ranch. Picking our way through narrow gorges and gullies, our surefooted steeds navigated the rocky terrain with years of experience, leaving us free to revel in the harsh and beautiful landscape, riding the same paths that not only the Duke, but also our forefathers and the early Native Americans surely used. Seeing the land from the saddle of my horse, McCourt, not only fulfilled my own cowgirl fantasy, but also gave me an authentic historical perspective by, literally, walking in the footsteps of those who had gone before me. After three hours of craning my neck to look up to the peaks above, I would not have been surprised to see a defiant Geronimo appear on the top of one. The past is as pervasive here as the red canyon dust that coats you from head to toe.

Mountain Biking Mecca
Moab is a cyclist’s dream, and although it offers both great mountain biking and road cycling, it is known throughout the world for its Navajo Slickrock Trail. Matt Hebberd, co-owner of Rim Tours, one of the oldest bike tour companies in the area, describes the slick rock as “an adult skatepark for bikers”. The “grippy” sandpaper texture of the rock gives riders infinite creativity in choosing their lines. You can ride sideways across the face of the rock, or straight up a steep cliff since the tires stick so well to the surface. Although it’s only 9.6 miles long, every cyclist who comes to Moab will want to try this trail for the sheer uniqueness of its technical challenges. On the other hand, mountain bikers love the 22-mile Porcupine Rim Trail, a favorite of expert-level riders who are dropped off by shuttle on the top of the canyon rim, surrounded by breathtaking views of Castle Valley below. The trail follows the rim all the way around the canyon before descending back onto a path near the river on the outskirts of Moab. On the day I accompanied the shuttle to the Rim, one member of the group, Philadelphia cyclist Dave Darrah, was returning for the umpteenth time to tackle this challenging ride so I asked him afterwards why he kept coming back to Moab.

“I first visited Moab in 1968 and this city boy was blown away by the wide open spaces and knock-your-socks off beauty. My first ride was on Klondike Bluffs and I wondered why I waited so long to start mountain biking. Easy stuff, hard stuff…Moab has it all and it’s a feast for the eyes. It’s a far cry from 98% of all mountain biker’s regular home environments. This morning, we had a fantastically beautiful ride, with enough technical sections to keep us on our toes practically the whole way. Brian, from Rim Tours, was a great guide, giving us tips about biking, geology, and even botany.”

For less experienced riders, or even as a warm-up to get used to the unique terrain, recommended trails include the Courthouse Loop, the Blue Buffalo trail, the Bar M Loop, or the Klondike Bluffs. And, Matt says the multi-day White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park is suitable for all age and skill levels. “The White Rim trail is great for riders of all abilities, and we often take families. You can do it in three or four days, at your own pace, or if you’re really looking for a challenge, some of the experts do the full 107 miles in one day.”

Mike and Maggie (everyone is on a first-name basis here) of Magpie Adventures also highly recommend the White Rim Trail to their groups, and offer women-only and family rides throughout the season. “For the novice rider, there couldn’t be a better place to learn mountain biking with grand downhills, miles of cruising, demanding climbs, and exquisite views. For the intermediate and advanced riders, the White Rim will test your skills and max-out your fun meter.”

Most visitors rent bikes from their tour operator or one of the cycle shops in Moab, although you can ship your bike directly to either a shop or outfitter to have it assembled and waiting for your arrival. However, most riders welcome the opportunity to rent so they can try out new high performance bikes, and Rim Tours, along with several of the bike rental outfits in town, offers the option of purchasing your rental bike at the end of the season. Fall is a beautiful time to be in the canyons with the cottonwoods, box elders, and scrub oaks peaking with color, and riding is generally good through the end of November, with the season picking back up again in mid-March. If you’re an experienced mountain biker or have biked this area before and prefer to go D.I.Y., maps of all the bike trails are available online and at the gear shops, and the Porcupine Shuttle Service can take you to your drop off point.

If you’re more into road cycling than mountain biking, Moab also offers some stunning rides like a trip out Potash Road (Hwy 276) to see the Indian Rock Art and watch the climbers on the sheer cliffs known as “Wall Street”. Road cyclists are also welcome at Arches National Park, the home of some of the West’s most famous scenery including Delicate Arch, the Balancing Rock, and the Double Windows. A seven-day bike pass is a bargain at $5, and a great way to see some of nature’s most spectacular rock formations. Canyonlands National Park, about 30 miles west of Moab, also offers great road cycling so if you’re a fan of biking in national parks, you may want to consider the annual parks pass that admits you to all national parks for a full year.

Even More Outdoor Adventure
Hikers will want to explore Arches National Park on foot, from the easy three tenths of a mile loop around Balanced Rock to the strenuous three mile hike up to Delicate Arch, Moab’s signature rock formation that appears on the Utah license plate. For expert hikers, the trip to Fiery Furnace at sunset is a must, but you have to go with either a ranger or a hired guide as there is not a trail to follow for this climb.

The Colorado River offers excellent white water rafting, kayaking, and canoeing opportunities, and both four-wheeling and ATV adventures are abundant. If you love going vertical, local adventure company, Cliffs and Canyons, will take you to the heights on the sheer cliffs of “Wall Street”, the desert towers in Arches National Park, or canyoneering in either Arches or Canyonlands.

The Sport of Relaxing
Once you’ve gotten your endorphin high for the day, there are still plenty of fun things to do in Moab. Take the guided movie location tour, or hop in the car and track down the Rock Art and Dinosaur Track sites spread throughout the area. Bikers will want to check out the gear at Poison Spider and Chili Pepper bike shops, and browsers will enjoy wandering through the quaint downtown boutiques and craft galleries filled with native art, pottery, jewelry, and an infinite variety of reproductions of the popular Kokapelli petroglyphs.

After a hot day of hiking or biking, grab a cold local brew and a burger at the Moab Brewery on the south end of Main Street, or treat yourself to a Mexican fiesta at the charming La Hacienda. The Canyonlands by Night Western barbeque , followed by a two hour, narrated river cruise is both a relaxing and informative way to spend a cool evening on the water, and is the outdoor equivalent of floating on your back in a huge planetarium.

With a wide range of accommodations from the casually upscale Red Cliffs Lodge to the centrally located, mid-priced Landmark Inn downtown, and everything in between from posh to primitive, there’s a place for every traveler’s style and budget. Cabins and RV parking are available at The Arch View Resort a little north of town, and there are several campsites, including Devil’s Garden at Arches National Park.

It’s almost impossible to describe Moab without resorting to clichés, or running out of superlatives. But then, that’s what adventure has always been about…you’ll just have to go see for yourself.

TRAVEL RESOURCES:
www.discovermoab.com is the Moab Travel Council’s repository of information on the area which not only includes lists of accommodations, attractions, and tour providers, but also bike trail maps and descriptions.
www.utah.com , the official state website, also has a lot of good information if you plan to explore more of Utah
www.rimtours.com
www.magpieadventures.com
www.redcliffslodge.com
www.landmarkinnmoab.com
www.poisonspiderbicycles.com