Waves Lull You to Sleep at the Beach-Front Stone Cottage, East Cape, Cabos San Lucas
Villa del Faro, East Cape Cabo, Cabo San Lucas, Baja California, Mexico
Evening at the Stone Cottage by R. Charles Ripley
“How did you find us?” asked Devora. “We don’t do much advertising.”
After a couple of weeks e-mailing back and forth, it was nice to meet this friendly lady in her East Cape family compound. Two years ago, she and those of her extended family that remain on the compound decided to welcome occasional travelers.
After a 45 minute drive from the airport along a winding, dirt road through desert scrub, arroyos and serial washboard bumps, as well as a couple of low streams that cleaned the dust from the wheels of our small compact, it was clear that no one would just ‘pop in’ unannounced either.
The Villa del Faro sits on acres of low bush, cactus and boulder-strewn property sloping up from the Sea of Cortez about 25 miles north of San Jose del Cabo. Straight north along the coast, that is, if one were to brave the even less inviting coastal road. Carved from this beautiful desert wildness is the Villa del Faro family compound, lovingly groomed tropically landscaped grounds surrounding and separating six villas and a large central living room and library central gathering area. Each home is individually designed, built and appointed by the family over their 17 year passion for transforming this piece of rugged desert into their piece of heaven. Then they decided to share it.
“You see, the kids have moved on, they have their own families. So we have all this extra space. We decided; why not share it?” Devora demurred. The ‘adults’ that live at the Villa full time occupy two of the homes and the other villas are rented to guests or taken by the occasional visiting family.
The grounds and homes are immaculate, designed and built by the architect of the family, Richard Guerin, who provides these services through a local company named Abreojos. Each structure is differently textured to blend with the surroundings and is appointed with a fine hand towards local yet elegant style. Flowering bushes abound, butterflies and hummingbirds zip from bud to bud, fountains murmur and splash. Yet each villa, and seemingly each area, though nearby, is hidden by abundant, well positioned tropical greenery.
The ‘Pool House’ is aptly named. Its central living room, dining and kitchen area is open to the 50 foot ceramic-tiled crystal blue pool. The dolphin design cavorting on the bottom shimmers with the breeze from the Sea of Cortez a short 50 meters down the slope. It was not occupied during our stay so Devora invited us to use the pool when we wished. The bedroom and pool overlook the Sea, as do all the half dozen dwellings, the various sitting areas and breakfast niches.
An easy five minute walk down the sandy terraced path, interrupted by lizards skidding across the trail, brings you to the fine sandy beach. Long lingering looks in both direction reveals nothing but miles of beach, heaps of driftwood, crashing waves… and the Stone Cottage. The family built it as a cool cabana and now with the addition of a comfortable large bed and few other niceties it is also available to guests.
Always cool from the sun due to its thick walls and astutely placed windows providing cross ventilation, the Cottage is basic and beautiful. Outdoor plumbing, outdoor grill with indoor coziness, acres of private beach, comfy beach chairs, an umbrella and a cooler full of ice – what more do you need for the perfect beaching break? Ah… Devora knows: the evening killer margarita and a gourmet breakfast each morning at your own breakfast niche near her staff’s large and friendly kitchen.
And if she has taken the trek into town for provisions, Carol, her sister knows how to resolve any small question that might arise. Or Jeremy, Carol’s husband, knows. He graciously met us unsolicited at the airport when our delayed flight arrived after dark and guided us to the Villa. This included waiting for us to stop at the market near the airport and load up on provisions for the cooler and barbeque.
And, as a final helpful touch, Jeremy had the staff put a couple of more gallons of gas in our car before our departure to the airport so we would have no worries. We had used up more than expected with our several short drives to the local cantina overlooking the sea; The Crossroads. Because of their genuine friendliness and interest in having you as a guest rather than a client, Devora’s extended family that remain at the Villa, or those who routinely come and go, know how to insure a no worry, super relaxing sojourn.
The drive to either San Jose del Cabo or Cabo San Lucas means returning along the 45 minute dusty trail. But it is a different and far more pleasant experience with the benefit of daylight. Although desert-like, the East Cape region of the Baja Peninsula has enough rainfall and water runoff to support abundant desert wildlife. Giant cardon cactus rise statuesque from the thick brush. Elephant trees, organ pipe cactus, palm trees and many other varieties cover the rolling hills and flats that stretch to the Sierra la Laguna Mountains that form the backdrop against a brilliant blue sky.
Wildlife such as deer and fox are hidden in the brush so rarely seen from the comfort of your care. But domestic horses, burros, cows roam freely on the large ranch tracts between the coast and the mid peninsula Highway 1. Birds rise out of the brush; egrets, herons, black ravens, and flashes of unidentified color whiz across your view. A roadrunner dashes across the dirt track. One looks behind it expecting Wily Coyote - he is there but only comes out at night.
Both cities offer a diversion to the serene solitude of the Stone Cottage. San Jose remains a more local, less bustling scene while Cabo San Lucas continues to grow with tourist dollars and hotel investment with predictable results. After a pleasant afternoon sailing and an hour in the shops and side streets, we looked forward to returning to our nest. And we didn’t leave the Stone Cottage for the remainder of our stay.
Devora’s ambivalence to stocking her villas with visitors is understandable. Her family built Villa del Faro with loving care over the years and she sees her guests more as new friends. “I don’t like asking for the payments” she explains and then thoughtfully adds, “You will come back to see us, won’t you?”
Thinking of the luxurious days walking, reading and slumbering on the beach, sipping wine at dusk while watching the pelicans glide along the crest of long rolling waves, barbequing under the luminous moon and brilliant star light, imbibing the house favorite margaritas available by the pitcher and ultimately dozing off to the soothing rhythm of waves breaking 40 feet away, we smile and reply: “We don’t want to leave.”
Pool House villa at the del Faro
Stone Cottage on Villa del Faro beach
Beach Day at the Stone Cottage
More Articles by R. Charles Ripley
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An Accommodating Tuscan Hilltop Fortress Village; The Little Montecarlo
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