Italy Off the Beaten Track
Wood fired oven
I love Italy, simple as that. Ask me why and I couldn’t tell you. Perhaps it’s the people or the scenery, or a combination of both. Many of the cities look as if they’re plucked straight from the middle ages, yet its citizens dress in the latest fashions. There are hilltop villages that defy gravity, which appear detached from the real world, yet the characters here live life to the full, enjoying each others company, especially around the dinner table for hours on end.
The food and wine which adorns the table is simple and usually locally sourced. It will tease the taste buds of any an unsuspecting visitor.
What I do know is that if there’s an excuse to visit, I’m off, and an ice cream from any local gelateria alone is worth the air fare.
Then again, perhaps I’m somewhat biased as my parents are both Italian and I’ve spent many a summer there in my early years in the custody of fussing relatives. My fathers family made ice cream, my mothers bottled wine, so I had the best of both you might say.
With just over two hours flying time from Scotland, Italy is an ideal weekend retreat. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) offer some great deals from Glasgow Prestwick to Pisa (for Florence), Bergamo (for Milan) and Rome and so it's never been easier to sample a taste of La Dolce Vita. There are also options with Flyglobespan (www.flyglobespan.com) and Jet2 (www.jet2.com) from Edinburgh though these are less frequent.
Of course it is difficult to overlook the main cities and getting lost in Venice, shopping till you drop in Milan, and ruining your shoes at the ruins in Rome does have a certain if somewhat maddening appeal. But this article looks at the not-so-touristy options.
Our first stop is Bergamo, an ideal destination, world class winter resorts are within commuting distance and the old town boasts a wide selection of bars and restaurants open well into the early hours. Architectural gems such as Verona and its characteristic Roman amphitheatre regularly hosts opera performances and is only an hour away. In both locations you can explore the labyrinth of tightly knit city streets by day and perhaps enjoy a passegiata (stroll) by night. Also nearby is the spectacular Lake Como and the picture postcard town of Bellagio (which the Las Vegas resort was modelled on).
Flying into Pisa opens up Tuscany with its enchanting history and the neighbouring region of Liguria, famed for its craggy coastline and exceptional cuisine. Names such as Florence, Pisa, Lucca, Siena and San Giminiano roll off the tongue of travel connoisseurs, so let's consider some lesser well known alternatives.
The Apennine Alps are a winter playground and nearby the Carrara quarries boast marble that was used in Michelangelo's statue of David. This area is well known for local wines and cheeses and is a great example of the typical undulating Italian countryside, ideal for mountain biking and horse riding.
In the Mediterranean off the Tuscan coast, the clear waters of Elba and Monte Cristo (where the Count was from in Dumas' novel) offer world class diving and sailing. Of course you shouldn't discount the main tourist areas and I would recommend visiting these in August which despite the heat are easier to get around in. as many of the locals begin the exodus west to the sea. Seasoned seaside resorts such as Viareggio, Forte Dei Marmi and the picturesque Cinque Terre welcome mostly Italian visitors in search of sun, shopping and seafood.
However, if it is food you are after, the mountainous area of the Garfagnana region and its medieval villages provide tastes and recipes that have changed very little in over two hundred years. You can savour wild boar with fresh locally picked porcini mushrooms and wash it all down with a local red from the Colline Lucchesi. Even the simplest of dishes like pizza, ooze a taste that can only be had locally. The ovens are built by craftsmen, the wood that burns in them and gives the pizza its smoky flavour is collected locally and most Pizzaioli (pizza chefs) have had to train for years before they are put in charge of their own ovens. There are a wide variety of interesting towns scattered throughout this area that may not be immediately recognisable but are well worth the visit, such as historical Volterra and Cortona (Tuscany) to the seaside town of Santa Margherita and mountain retreat of Lucinasco (Liguria).
For a quieter pace of life, try Sardinia, only a short ride away on the fast ferry from Civitavecchia (one hour north of Rome). The spectacular beaches claim to have some of the clearest waters in the world.
With Italy you are spoilt for choice and wherever you go, you really can't go wrong. So from coastline to waistline this country really has everything, natural beauty, cuisine and if you can't speak the language don't worry, shrug your shoulders and open another bottle of vino and enjoy the view.
La Pania
Cinque Terre by night
Volterra
This is the life, Sardinia and its famous beaches
Barga near the Garfagnana
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