Over 100 years ago when Cesar Ritz said to his staff,” Never say no when a client asks for something, even if it is the moon…”, he was not kidding.
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Yesterday, I checked out of THE RITZ in London, England, after an 8 day holiday . Coming from hot, humid, southeast Florida, I anticipated awakening at about 9AM daily, walking over to my open window, inviting the brisk cool London air to embrace me. Then, tally ho! to the physical fitness center for a work out on a virtual bicycle. For me, exercise is a humdrum routine. Joyously awaiting a stationary bike that included a visual, mind-trip was an exciting alternative to using the plain ol’ stationary bike in the physical fitness center where I live in Coconut Creek. Alas, on the third day, the physical fitness center was no longer available. When I expressed my gentle woes to the Concierge Staff, Tony and Paul immediately replied, ”Would you like us to move the bicycle to your room?” Amazed. Elated. Surprised was I. Then, I recalled Cesar Ritz”…even if it is the moon”.
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The word RITZ has become synonymous with elegance, luxury and probably a host of other corresponding equivalents in Roget’s Thesaurus. I bet Cesar never imagined that his family name would be an adjective, RITZY! Or that 22 years after his death Vera Lynn would sing “There were Angels dining at The Ritz and a nightingale sang in Berkeley Square” . After Miss Lynn’s performance, Glenn Miller, Nat King Cole, Bobby Darin, Harry Connick Jr. and Tony Bennet performed this Maschwitz/Sherwin song with lovely lyrics of winding streets in Mayfair, enchantment and magic in the air.
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There have been many thoughts, sensations and expectations, I have never imagined within the framework of my life. . . like staying at THE RITZ. The semantics of this perception were not even a notion or an impression. I became the fortunate recipient of a successful, former student’s generosity, Desiree Asher, an exemplary student on my Debate Team during the mid-90’s. She presented me with this opportunity, and the experience to write about one of the most aesthetically beautiful vacations that I have ever had for her company.
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On the last day of March, this ladies vacation began in the immortal, resilient, colossal city of London. The four of us, Desiree, Judith,[Desiree's Mom], Nancy, and I, arrived at Heathrow Airport from Miami, Florida, where a car was awaited to drive us to the majestic Mayfair section of London. Pulling up to the entrance, our weary faces were greeted by Michael, the doorman’s warm, glowing, smile and his grand “good morning” at an unkind time of the early morning. “Brilliant, we are really here, at THE RITZ, in my favorite city.” We did not have to wait very long for room 506. Upon opening the door, Nancy and I felt like Princesses or Ladies or Dames. Well, let’s face it. We shared the proximity of Green Park with Queen Elizabeth. She was at her home in Buckingham Palace. We were at THE RITZ.
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Entering the room, located on the 5th floor, overlooking the St. James/Piccadilly Area, we walked through a hallway filled with exuberant closet space and a mini bar. Three very large windows monopolized and brightened the ivory-colored room featuring gold trim, with beige curtains adorned in fern green and persimmon roses. Ample lighting was provided by sconces around the beds and the marble mantel of the fireplace. In the center was a crystal chandelier with swags and drops, and several Victorian lamps were placed throughout the room. Louis the XVI furniture provided us with comfort and a well-framed picture of Fragonard’s painting, Les Hazards Heuereux de L’Escarpolette was above the desk. In diametrical opposition with all this period décor, was the modern flat screen TV. In relationship to the rest of the room, the flat screen seemed like a mechanism out of science fiction. The bathroom was spacious and extremely clean & modern. Twice a day, the maids freshened the room and refurbished the bathrrom with Floris products, a true representation of the local color. The first Floris shop was established right down the street from THE RITZ on Jermyn Street in the elegant St. James quarter in 1730 by Juan Floris. The first Royal Warrant granted to J.Floris Ltd was in 1820 to King George IV . Ever since , Floris has always held at least one Royal Warrant, and today holds two: Queen Elizabeth II and the Prince of Wales. So, one would shower or bathe, wrap oneself in a towel from the warmed- towel rack and slip into a comfortable, soft, robe and slippers. A variety of pillows were available and we chose a pillow gently infused with the scent of lavender to induce a calm sleeping experience. The perfect night’s sleep was a very positive feature of THE RITZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.
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One not only felt safe and snug within one’s bedroom. Safety was of paramount importance throughout THE RITZ. The security staff maintains 12 very astute, intense, yet charming individuals who learned names within hours. My initial conversations were with Nigel and Chris. I enjoyed greeting them daily and definitely felt secure. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to meet and talk with Barry Gendron, the security supervisor. Mr. Gendron was raised in the Seychells, one of 6 children, and when he came to London, he became a part of the New Scotland Yard. For the past 11 years he has worked at THE RITZ. This handsome gentleman spoke quite eloquently, like an interesting college professor, about his position in a place which upheld tradition, interacted with the community, and enjoyed fantasy and an exquisite form of life. He stressed the fact that his staff was approachable, friendly, flexible, and created collectively to achieve an atmosphere of safety and satisfaction. With benevolent warmth, Mr. Gendron exclaimed,” nothing is impossible at THE RITZ”. Again a reflection of Cesar’s ”Never say no…even if it’s the moon”.
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In all honesty, we believed the breakfast food could have been more delectable. One morning I had eggs benedict and the lemon flavor of the hollandaise sauce was hardly noticeable. That same morning the bread basket, for 9 pounds, was hard and stale. However, Nancy’s porridge was fantastic and the tea was extremely tasty. We never had dinner since the prices on the menu were out of our middle class range. Dinner for two would have cost about 130 pounds without wine. But the Rivoli bar was beautiful with soft lights, comfortable seating, great service and delicious wine for 9 pounds a glass. Well worth it, just to relax in this awesome room.
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Although Desiree visited London once, briefly, it was Judith’s first trip. Our first walk was down Piccadilly,a right turn from the hotel, toward Piccadilly Circus. We passed the famous Fortnum & Mason, a grand store offering specialty products such as fine tea, perfume, an assortment of exotic foods ,such as cognac butter, my favorite, hampers ,which are RITZY picnic baskets, and two restaurants. It is truly a mecca of opulent splendor. The next block featured the Burlington Arcade, an area dominated by luxurious shops, the Royal Arcade, a museum with palladium architecture, and the arts & crafts show at St. James Church which is held a few days a week. Suddenly, within minutes, we were at the junction of five busy streets, and the famous London Landmark Piccadilly Circus with Eros at the top of the fountain with bow and arrow in hand. Then, a right turn down Regent St. to the Mall ,a left turn to London’s Trafalgar Square which is famous for a variety of sculptures, especially the lions, fountains, and an enormous population of pigeons. The pigeons are not sculptures. They live,breathe, and wait for an opportunity to catch someone’s snack disposal. This Square is surrounded by my favorite museum, the National Gallery, St. Martin of the Fields Church, which holds 20 services a week, and has a café in it’s crypt, eerie, and a series of streets leading to a plethora of other great landmarks. We stood in the center of the Square, smiling, enjoying the temperate whether, a contrast to our enervating heat at home, and said,”This is beautiful London!” and carefully selected the street leading to Covent Garden, the Strand, for shopping ! But, it’s not just about shopping. Covent Garden is a happy ,happy, location highlighting a variety of performers. We always return to the Crusting Pipe Wine Bar,on the lower ground floor of the Market,sit outside with our wine,hot chocolate, tea, or coffee, and listen to classical musicians play Vivaldi,Mozart, Beethoven, Ravel, etc. Finis! Enough for one day.
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During the 8 days we visited museums, Harrods, Oxford Street, Harrods, ate pub food, Harrods, and saw 3 plays, Women in Black, Billy Elliot, and Equus. I was determined and fixated upon seeing “Harry Potter”, Daniel Radcliffe in his first adult role…and there were several minutes where his “adulthood” was quite evident. LOL. Desiree and Judith loved to eat at Shepherd’s Market and this area seems to be a secret since so few people seem to know about it. Upon leaving THE RITZ, one makes a left, walks in the opposite direction of Fortnum & Mason, and looks for White Horse Street, opposite Green Park and 5 streets away from THE RITZ. This cozy area in the heart of Mayfair is like a village featuring narrow streets and alleyways. There are a variety of restaurants and they are all intimate ,snug, and comfy. Desiree and Judith would know this best because out of 8 evenings,they ate there 4 times!!!
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Another place we enjoyed was Ben Crouch’s Tavern located on Wells Street, Fitzrovia section, not far from Oxford Circus area. This gothic-themed tavern included a genre of grotesque art such as the devil himself, gargoyles, cackling toilets, plates with spiders painted on them, coffin-shaped bowls, and the famous seven sins cocktail.
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I could go on and on ad infinitum about London. This city is the veritable love of my life. The opportunity to spend 8 nights at THE RITZ was truly fantastic. If you have the monetary means, I would highly recommend this awesome 5 star 101 year old landmark at 150 Piccadilly. In 2004, the English Speaking Union awarded me a scholarship to study for 3 weeks at THE GLOBE in London. If there was a scholarship to study at THE RITZ, even though I had to shed my cherished blue jeans and tennis shoes to sit in the beautiful Rivoli Bar, I would apply for that scholarship with wholehearted effort. Desiree Asher, my dear, eloquent, debater from the mid 90’s, gave me an immeasurable gift…a luxurious, aesthetic experience that will forever reside in the reservoir of my heart...an unforgettable,boundless,memoir.