I have wanted to go to Machu Picchu ever since I was in grade five and saw a picture of it on National Geographic magazine. A lost city. Surrounded by mountains, covered with moss, shrouded in mists - it evoked mystery. I was so disappointed when Shirley MacLaine got there before I did and made it a trendy "new age" place. I wanted to see it as the secret city it had been, to approach it as the explorer Hiram Bingham had in 1911 when he "rediscovered" Machu Picchu for the first time in centuries. Although I had to wait 28 years after my initial inclination to get there, and millions of tourists had gone before me, I wasn’t disappointed. My first glimpse of the sacred city of the Incas was in pre-dawn light, several hours before I would have to share the city with tour bus crowds. So it was as I had imagined it, just me and a few other rugged individuals who walked through the mountains and into Machu Picchu in its magnificent natural setting.

I had been travelling in Central America, but felt I was too close to South America to pass up the opportunity to explore Machu Picchu. So once I had made my way to Peru, I headed straight for Cuzco, the ancient centre of Incan civilization. In a few days I had adjusted to the 3,300 meter altitude and obtained quotes from the multitudes of travel agencies operating tours in and around Cuzco. I needn’t have visited so many - they work together and anyone wanting to start the 4-day hike of the Inca Trail on a particular day ends up in the same group (there are expensive exceptions to this rule). In my group we had all paid slightly different prices. I had paid the most, of course, but on revisiting the travel agent after my return to Cuzco, I was cordially refunded the difference of about $15. Since the whole trip cost about $90, it was a substantial discount.

My hiking group was multinational, with representatives from Europe, Japan, Argentina, the United States and me, the lone Canadian. Our guide was Peruvian and we hired on four local porters in a small pueblo where we bought fresh produce for the trip. The porters carried our tents and all the food and cooking utensils. We each carried our own sleeping bags, ground mats, personal gear and water (water purification tablets are a must but they are easily purchased in Cuzco; all camping gear can be rented). The more deluxe groups have porters dressed in Incan costumes and additional luxuries such as portable toilets and dinner tables.

Due to a bridge wash out, our group got dropped off at kilometer 78, 10 kilometers before the official "start" of the 33 kilometer Inca Trail. Although this meant more walking and climbing, the guide was correct when he told us that this detour would provide some of the most beautiful scenery in the trek. Day 1 was exhilarating but I was worried because Day 2 is the one everyone warns you about and soroche (altitude sickness) is a distinct possibility. My stomach was a bit upset after dinner the first night so I agreed to share in hiring a horse to carry my pack and sleeping gear up to the first pass on Day 2.

The second day proved a challenging climb even with only a daypack and water to carry. At regular intervals I had to remind myself to look up, look around. The scenery was so spectacular that for several minutes the exhaustion from climbing would disappear. Everyone munched on coca leaves purchased in the market prior to the hike. The coca is supposed to alleviate the headaches and nausea associated with high altitudes. Gravity never felt so tangible as I tried to pry each foot from the ground and place it a shade closer to the top of the pass. At 4,200 meters I’d finally made it and quickly recovered my energy by drinking in the view. We could see over the surrounding mountains to further horizons of snowy summits. The sun shone through crystal blue skies but the wind was fierce, biting right through my alpaca sweater. As I watched the procession of other hikers inching their way up towards us I revelled in a euphoria akin to runner’s high - enhanced by a strong dose of relief. Two young Argentinean men in my group rode up on horses. Meanwhile, we all cheered as a 70 year old French woman from the "deluxe" tour walked up on her own steam, carrying her own daypack - an inspiration for us all. Whether you want them or not, the horses go no further than this first pass. Everyone carries their own gear from that point on.

From the pass, we plummeted down the other side for an hour before arriving at a suitable picnic spot. Then, in the late afternoon, we started up again, visiting an Incan ruin and regaining the 4,000 meter mark to reach our second night’s campsite. Our arrival sent deer bounding away to more private pastures. I also had the good fortune to spy a rare spectacled bear observing us as we unpacked.

After a hard, energy consuming day and faced with an icy night in tents high up in the Andes, we were treated to a major carbohydrate loading. Dinner consisted of popcorn appetizer, noodle and potato soup, followed by an entrée of rice, mashed potatoes and greasy sausages. In addition to indigestion, everyone was worried about freezing. The guide recommended going to sleep wearing everything in our packs. I even wore my Ecuadorian woolen poncho on the inside of my rented sleeping bag. I didn’t sleep well, but I can’t say I was cold.

The next morning it was a challenge to get out of the tent. Frost glittered from every surface. My lungs received icy stabs with each breath and my stiff limbs begrudged every move. More popcorn passed for breakfast along with some maté (tea) de coca and hot chocolate which helped us finish the climb to the second pass. The third day then eased into gentle climbing and investigating ruins along the giant stone path constructed by the Incas in the early 1500’s. Our guide told us the Incan sites along the trail were preparatory places, for cleansing and readying pilgrims on their way to the most sacred city - Machu Picchu. Fountains form a central theme in all the ruins and I was surprised the water still flows in the majority of these (very convenient for thirsty travellers). Unfortunately, all these sites’ original names have been lost and the names they are known by now, including Machu Picchu, have been given to them by researchers and explorers of this century.

A guide I talked to in the Sacred Valley, outside of Cuzco, explained that almost all the Incan knowledge, their religion, astronomy, architecture and agricultural skills had been lost, never recorded and, according to him, actively suppressed by the Dominican missionaries that accompanied Pizarro on his conquest of South America. In Mexico, the Jesuits were the predominant missionaries and their more scholarly approach produced a record of Aztec culture. The Dominicans, acting in the interests of the Catholic church during the Inquisition, censored information about the Incas because they were "heretics and heathens." I don’t know if this explanation provides the real reason why we know so little of the Incas, even though they were around and thriving in the 16th century, but it is frustrating to find there are no answers to the obvious questions about their impressive stonework: How did they fit the stone pieces together so precisely they needed no mortar? How did they move the huge slabs of stones from the quarries when they were a society that did not use the wheel? The present day Quechua Indians, descendants of the Incas, have no oral history of that time, no connection to these masters of agriculture and astronomy. A famous Peruvian writer describes their loss by saying "the Quechua are sleeping." Our guide hoped they could reclaim their heritage through education - but little is known to teach them. Every guide I met presented a different theory.

Day 3 of the trek ended with a steep descent down an Incan staircase of incredible length. I kept thinking I had reached the bottom but a short pathway on level ground would lead to yet another deep pitch. After almost 2 hours of losing altitude, I approached the tiny, dusty town of Wiñay-Wayna on wobbly knees. I was greeted by a young girl selling cold drinks and chocolates and thus recovered quickly. Although we later celebrated the first anniversary of a couple from Luxembourg with a few rounds of beer, we all went to bed early because we were to get up at 4:45 the next morning to arrive at "la Puerta del Sol" (the Sun Gate) of Machu Picchu in time for sunrise.

A woman I met in Cuzco days earlier had warned me that after visiting the impressive ruins along the trail, Machu Picchu had been a let down for her. Not so for me. The setting for Machu Picchu is so stunning, nothing else compares. At la Puerta del Sol we watched and waited for the sun to creep up over the surrounding mountains and light up the lost city. As we walked along the path from the sun gate it was easy to understand why countless photographers have used this vantage point to capture the image of Machu Picchu. The ruins are nestled at the base of Huayna Picchu - the distinctive tower of mountain which forms a backdrop and makes pictures of Machu Picchu so recognizable. For over two hours we got to explore the extensive ruins as its only occupants, our guide offering possible explanations of various buildings and compounds throughout the site. I was enthralled. Machu Picchu truly is a magical, mystical place. It was easy to hang back from the group and find myself alone in a special space. I just enjoyed watching the sun throw shadows on the smooth stone walls or break through the opening in a gate, creating haloes of light.

To cap off our hike most of us also climbed to the top of Huayna Picchu for the most breathtaking views over the Andes in the entire trip. I had not planned to climb further than Machu Picchu but it was easy to get carried away by the enthusiasm of the group and I would recommend the extra climb to any other travellers with sufficient time and no history of vertigo. After our descent back down from the sentinel mountain, the ruins were a busy place with tour buses arriving and departing every few minutes. We quickly collected our packs from the luggage clerk and took a bus down a long series of switchbacks to the town of Aguas Calientes. We had just enough time there to devour some pizza and beer. A few people managed a quick trip to the hot springs but the springs received only a tepid review. It is possible to overnight in Aguas but everyone in my group had opted for the train back to Cuzco the same night.

Although we had first class tickets, there were no seats in any of the carriages and this is apparently almost always the case. We sat on our packs in the aisle and eventually found the odd seat which we would take turns resting in. It was a tedious train ride of over 4 hours after a day that had begun long before dawn. But we were fortunate to have a full moon accompany us back to Cuzco. It was somehow reassuring to watch as it rose and made a mirror of the dark Urubamba River travelling at our side. Although we were still in an overstuffed carriage it served to remind us of our recent closeness with nature, when we were alone in the Andes with the echoes of the Incas.

IF YOU GO:

When

- April to October is the dry season but it can be very cold, especially at night
- November to April is wet season
- Mid July to September is considered high tourist season
- 24th of June is Inti Raymi, the Incan festival of winter solstice -Cuzco is very busy around this time, book in advance

The Inca Trail

- The Inca Trail and the pace of an organized group is "moderate" in difficulty
- Altitude adds a dimension of difficulty for people who have not acclimated
- The Trail can be done without a guide, all camping gear can be rented in Cuzco
- Shop around for quality and price on tours and equipment (check gear carefully before accepting)

Cuzco

Cuzco, the Sacred Valley and the Inca Trail are relatively safe now that Shining Path is not a strong force but caution is still recommended and theft is rampant throughout Peru. Common sense and awareness are your best defense - use the hotel safes - even cheap guesthouses have them.

There is much to explore in Cuzco and the surrounding Sacred Valley - try to allow time to really appreciate this area - and acclimate to altitude (Inca Trail plus 5 to 7 days)

You’ll find good shopping for all Andean crafts in the area. The Women’s Cooperative store in Cuzco has excellent quality, and supports a good cause. It is near Govinda, the Hare Krishna restaurant