Ancient and hip, sexy but able to handle the skimpiest budget, Cartegena offers the dazzling activities of a first rate resort town, married to a city ancient in its history, all at a price that even the most budget-conscious taveler can’t ignore. Tonite, we are out to see why.

We climb into a one-horse carriage, popular here for night time outings, and we’re off. First part is a lazy tour of the Bocagrande, where our hotel is located. This broad, modern tourist area has a fascinating, Miami Beach appeal with the art deco colors and white, dazzling beaches. Then we’re on the causeway, heading to the mainland of Cartegena as we watch the sun set in blazing glory.

Then we begin to see the first details of Las Murallas, the 8km of impressive walled defences that almost encircle the old town. These were constructed over a period of two centuries to defend the city against marauding pirates. Cartagena was the storehouse of vast native riches looted by the conquering Spanish. These hoards of wealth were oppulant targets while waiting for the twice-yearly visits of the Spanish treasure galleons. In the 16th century alone, the city endured five pirate sieges.

Now the stone walls stand tall about the old city, whitened from centuries of wind and ocean spray. We clatter through a gated entry and the modern Cartegena is immediately transformed into something of centuries before. Within the walls the 16th-century colonial town still perches on the Caribbean shore. Inside massive sprays of bougainvillea tumble from the iron balconies over the narrow streets. Here too, street performers entertain in all their colorful array: musicians, dancers, living statues and more. Artists draw caricatures and little children hawk cold water.

As the sun fades we sit at a streetside café and drink a marvelous sangria. Nearby are raucous bars that pulse with life. The street lights are on, giving a soft, mellow light to the ancient look of the old quarter. Young lovers walk arm-in-arm along the walls, past massive cannon and pyramids of iron shot. Just the quiet and a romantic, evening stroll along the walls here, looking out along the Caribe, is well worth the trip all in itself.

One definite irritation are some of the more aggressive street sellers. They entice you to enter a building with a ‘free museum!’ pitch. You go into find it is merely a store selling jewelry or touristy whatnots, with a single ancient something-or-other on display to earn their haughty “museum” label.. This happened to us twice before we caught on.

Tales of narco-terrorists and political assasinations have scared off many a traveler to Colombia as a whole and Cartegena in particular. Colombia's internal troubles are hardly a well-kept secret. When you plan to visit, trouble is all you hear about. The Foreign Office site will warn you off most of the country, and your friends will tell you you'll be kidnapped. As is often the case, these warnings are, in Cartagena's case, grossly unfair.

The town has its share of armed guards and police on the streets, but it also feels totally safe. But the tourists here are overpoweringly other South Americans, Ecuadorians, Brazilians and others here to enjoy this Carribean jewel. This is a horrible shame. Prices are cheap for food and drink, while the modernism of the Bocagrande can satsfy even the most particular traveler. It’s also an active city with international film festivals, regattas, bull-fighting seasons, a national beauty pageant and international literature and poetry festivals.

The food is world-class, the people lively and open, and the town's energy and openess is beguiling. Astride the walls of Cartegena, we’ve found a true paradise on the shores of the Caribe.