You say you always wanted to go to Australia and New Zealand. Well, what are you waiting for? When it's autumn in North America it's springtime down under. Or vice-versa if you like skiing in Queenstown, NZ. And, you'll be more than pleased with the exchange rate, generally about one-and-a-half AUS or NZ dollars to US. Canadians like the rates and, Brits like it even better.

Since getting there is such a huge expense, take your time, because Australia is a huge country. We most often find we haven't allowed enough time to take advantage of being there, wherever there happens to be. We discovered no advantage to round-trip to air, train or bus travel, so one-way airfares are reasonable within and between both countries.

If you book an all-inclusive, one-price-fits-all, package of flight, ground transportation, meals and miscellaneous entertainment fees and expenses you will know in advance you will be in Sydney for four days, have a bed to sleep in and a hot meal every evening. Then off you fly to somewhere in New Zealand for another chance to be herded about on planes and buses. Some people need and can afford that kind of predictability and security. We like the challenge of making it up as we go along and interacting with people who live and work in countries we visit. Everywhere we went in Australia and New Zealand we met friendly and helpful people

If you are an able-bodied backpacker, Australia and New Zealand will love you, welcome and accommodate you. They will even help you find short-term employment and hostels. If you are retired senior citizens like us, with the luxury of time, you may be able to travel for less. We have the added benefit of my husband's 26 years in the Air Force. If you are eligible for Space Available travel on military aircraft you are missing the boat, or more aptly the plane, if you're not taking advantage of this opportunity. Sure, it sometimes lacks the convenience and comfort of commercial travel, but it's safe and the price is definitely right.

For our recent trip down under we parked our motor home at Travis Air Force Base near Sacramento, California, November 1st, and fortunately caught a military Space-A flight out the next day. Space-A means you go when and where they make room for passengers. With a 28-hour layover at Hickam AFB, Hawaii, three-hour layover at Pago Pago (pronounced Pongo Pongo), American Samoa, and the loss of a full day because of crossing the International Dateline, we arrived in Richmond, Australia, on November 4th.

The next morning we took a train from Richmond to Sydney. Train fare is cheaper after the morning commute hours. We planned to stay in Sydney at least seven days. When we arrived at the Central Railway Station we each bought the seven-day Triple Pass for unlimited travel by suburban train, bus or ferry boat for $37 AUS. We used a credit card at every opportunity. The statement came a month later and we were pleased with the bankexchange rate.

At the train station in Sydney we were directed to a large reader board with hotel, motel, hostel listings. I picked up the phone there and called Central Railway Motel. Steve answered and said I had called the best hotel in Sydney and, once we stayed there we would never want to leave. His friendly manner and good directions brought us by cab to his doorstep. At $70 AUS per night for room, bath, kitchenette and TV, we hit pay dirt. We were in the Strawberry Hills renovated district that hosts bistros, coffee shops, curbside eateries, and an Internet Cafe.

The next morning we realized we were conveniently located walking distance from the train station. We travel light. Our small backpacks have handles and wheels, so we pulled them along when needed. Since our triple passes were good day and night in and around Sydney we didn't need a car. Thus avoiding problems with traffic and parking.
We frequently took the train from Central to Circular Quay Station. From there we walked or took one of the numerous ferry boat rides in and out of the many harbors. As the sun set, the sky turned golden, then a dark, background for the harbor and city lights.

We saw three great Australian movies, went to the symphony at the world famous opera house, visited the animals at the Tonga Zoo and explored museums. From a second floor window of The Rocks historical museum you can see the Governors Mansion through a space between buildings across the Sydney harbor. Here, Governor Arthur Philip established the British penal colony of New South Wales in 1788. The Rocks became a lawless and disease-ridden area. Today it hosts artists, specialty shops and fine restaurants.

We took a full-day bus tour to the Blue Mountains, with stops at the site of the 2000 Summer Olympic, a wildlife zoo where we had our picture taken with the sleepy Koala Bear, and a sheep station to watch the round-up, practice boom-a-rang throwing, and drink Billy Tea.

After a week in Sydney we were faced with choices. We knew we lacked time for the Outback, or Melbourne, so we opted for a trip to Brisbane, a city of many culinary surprises along its winding river. Round-trip airfare, three nights at a great hotel across from Albert and Wickham Parks and a short walk to the Queen Street Mall, plus four-day car rental cost less than $250 each. We drove up the Sunshine Coast to Noosa Heads one day and down the Gold Coast to Tweed Heads the next. Miles of white sandy beaches, covered with young bodies during Schoolie Week (or Spring Break) in Australia. We limited our time on the beach as we were told the sun is very intense down under.

While in Sydney we booked a very reasonable flight and camper van rental package for New Zealand. We flew Air New Zealand into Christchurch. The Pacific Horizon Travelhomes people picked us up at the airport and we spent an hour going over the contract and details of the vehicle. Don't expect the kind of luxury you have with motor homes in the USA. These are compact and efficient touring vehicles. Ours was small. You either sit at the table or make up the bed. We picked up our maps, got our bearings in kilometers, and were on our merry way, driver on the right and hugging the road on the left.

While touring in the United States we seek out natural hot springs. In New Zealand, we headed straight away to the Hanmer Springs, north and west of Christchurch. Many New Zealanders, or Kiwis, take their holidays at Hanmer, a place not likely to be part of a tour package. We had a glorious soak in several of the outdoor pools that night. The following morning I viewed a spectacular sunrise across the meadow and over the mountains. We stayed in the first of the many Holiday Parks we were to call temporary homes. The RV parks are independently owned and operated but required to meet the same standards.

Touring the South Island offered an up-close and personal view of the natural beauty the country offers. Campervans and backpackers were everywhere. You can park a van overnight at any beautiful scenic area on public land. There are great distances between RV parks. Although our little van had shower and toilet we prefered a shower where you weren't bumping your elbows on the walls or your shins on the commode.

After the Hanmer we headed west to Greymouth then south along the Tasman Sea. We stopped at the artisans and jade shops in Hokitika. Parkas were more appropriate than shorts as we passed by Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers and icy running streams. The coastal road ended at Haast, where we turned back inland toward Queenstown, the summer and winter sports Mecca of the South Island. It's a bustling town with so many wonderful restaurants. We had lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe. We were parked overnight near the tram to the ski slopes and there was a dusting of snow on the surrounding hilltops in the morning.

Friends who have been to Australia and New Zealand have told us they loved New Zealand. We agree. The camper van is the best way to see the countryside. Hillsides and valleys were covered with golden spring wildflowers that looked like Scotch Broom but didn't smell like it. Lupine in shades of purple, pink, yellow and white blanketed the roadsides and meadows. Lupine grows tall and thick, and sheep dot every green landscape. Because it was spring down under little baby lambs were tagging along with their mothers in all the meadows. We stopped frequently just to drink in the overwhelming freshness and beauty of nature.

We went back to Christchurch for a day and a half of walking and driving about the city, attending a service at Christ Church, and making the last call for latte at Starbucks on a Sunday afternoon. We didn't have enough time to go everywhere and see everything. It takes more than a week to see the best that New Zealand has to offer. We never toured the North Island, nor did we get to the Fiordland National Park or Milford Sound. But then, that gives us a reason to go back someday.