The turbines whined and the rotors bit into the 45-degree Siberian air as our big Russian helicopter lifted off of the military airfield at Anadyr, eastern Siberia. It would take fifteen minutes to reach the flight deck of the I/B Kapitan Khlebnikov, a Russian icebreaker from Vladivostok, now under charter to Quark Expeditions (http://www.quarkexpeditions.com), out of Darien, Connecticut. The helicopter would make five trips before the 100 plus passengers were all aboard the ship.

Khlebnikov was a working vessel before she became a special kind of cruise ship, and cabins that had previously been assigned to scientists and technical staff were not refurbished for luxury before they became passenger cabins. Ours has ample storage space, a window and two comfortable single beds, narrow, but plenty long for my 6'3". The bathroom with shower is cozy, but that is good; one needs to be able to "get a grip" during rare rough seas.

Water and pack ice would be our highway through the fabled Northwest Passage to Resolute, Canada (passage through ice is noisy but not rough). Before setting out for the Bering Strait, we would visit Chukchi (Siberian Eskimo) villages and the Russian city of Providenya, a cold war remnant of about 5000 souls, most of whom would have followed 45,000 of their comrades to Moscow at the end of the cold war if they could have come up with the air fare. Along the way, we would shuttle ashore in zodiacs or helicopters to visit Eskimo villages, archeological sites, and other unique places in
Siberia and Canada. There were lectures by professional staff on history, geology, anthropology, and wildlife. Walrus and the occasional polar bear would witness our passage, and narwhals and beluga would escort the ship through special places. There were thousands of sea birds. Temperatures ranged between 40 and 50, and wind was rare.

At our leisure we would walk the decks or visit the bridge with its commanding view 125 feet above the water, and chat with fellow passengers, the captain, or other Russian officers. There is a comfortable lounge and library, with lots of books on wildlife and (largely polar) exploration. The dining room has open seating, so that we quickly become acquainted with fellow passengers. Cuisine by an Austrian chef is largely European, served by Russian waitresses.

One needs to be healthy but not especially athletic to enjoy the many activities on this cruise. Although we have reached our biblical three-score and ten, we did not miss much, onboard or ashore. There are challenges for the young and frisky as well. Hikes are designated short, medium, or long, depending on the hiker's energy or preference.

Now back home, we find that we can't quit thinking and talking about this trip. It helps to have patient friends and relatives.