Sarawak-a jungle odyssey
American Dream Vacation
Photo by various
A dream vacation need not be luxurious, opulent and cushioned with every modcon. If it is far removed from everything “normal”: habitat, customs, experience; if it stimulates, is a once-in-a life-time event; if it stirs the imagination: leaves amazing, lasting memories; you talk about it endlessly - it is a dream vacation.
Nothing fits these criteria more than a jungle trek in Sarawak, the largest Malaysian state, located in the northwest corner of Borneo, nicknamed Bumi Kenyalang- "Land of the Hornbills".
The capital Kuching is the gateway. Modern, yet cloaked in colonial overtones, it is clean and beautiful, charmingly enhanced by the Sarawak River that gives the state its name. while the cities house most of the population: colorful cultures encompassing twenty-eight ethnic groups, with their own distinct language, culture and lifestyle; a significant number still lives in longhouses and villages in remote areas, the backdrop to this epic journey.
Sarawakians observe a multitude of religions, including Islam, Christianity, Chinese folk religion (a fusion of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism and ancestor worship), Baha'i and animism.
Sarawak's rainforest is a diverse and protected ecosystem. A treasure trove of natural wonders lies within its national parks and ancient rainforests: formidable caves, cascading waterfalls, pristine beaches and exotic wildlife. www.sarawaktourism.com
Departure from Kuching wafts you away from modern civilization. En route to Batang Ai reservoir, the launch-pad, pass by pepper gardens, cocoa and rubber plantations, stop at colorful native market towns like Serian, displaying exotic jungle produce such as edible ferns, bamboo shoots and unusual tropical fruit. View profusely lush wild orchids, and carnivorous pitcher plants endemic to Borneo.
Alternatively, visit the Semenggoh Wildlife Center to see the Orang Utans at feeding time.
The odyssey begins with a longboat ride of several hours on pebble-bottomed jungle rivers. Some are so shallow in parts, that the boatmen, actually get out, lift the boat with (passengers on board!), on their shoulders and walk on the river-bed, until the water regains enough depth. A surreal experience, floating past scenic jungle surrounded by the sounds of nature. Upriver, await the longhouses that will be your home for the night. www.rainforestkayaking.com.
A longhouse is exactly that. A long single construction, under one roof, with separate rooms for each family of the tribe, under the authority of a headman. Communal activities take place outside on the veranda that runs the length of the structure. Whole longhouses can be assembled and secured by a single rope of rattan - a palm species, with a bendable trunk, suitable for weaving. If you look directly over the cook-fire, you will see wreaths of smoke-blackened skulls-trophies of when the tribespeople were headhunters and cannibals-a time thankfully past, decades ago.
Meals are prepared by a “Homestay Mama”, quite often the wife of the chief. Local delicacies like jungle ferns, rice & meats cooked in bamboo and local seasonal fruits are served. Try traditional musical instruments, dances and costumes, basket and blanket weaving and blowpipe making or buy the local handicrafts.
There are ample opportunities, morning and evening, to explore the surrounding primal jungle. Take an easy stroll up and downriver, to nearby hot springs, swim, fish native-style or explore the jungle. The more intrepid can trek through secondary jungle and farms, observing flora, fauna, scenic waterfalls and forest vistas. Indigenous wildlife includes orangutans, pig-tailed macaques, hornbills and other varieties of birds.
A thrill-seeking option is available to penetrate deeper into the forest, where porters will prepare delicious meals using produce from the jungle and cook outside over a campfire. They will build a hammock from trees and branches found nearby. This will be your “bed” for the night! An unforgettable experience.
Take time out to see Kuching; famous landmarks like the Tua Pek Kong Temple, Astana ( residence of the Governor), China Town, Museums, Charles Brooke Memorial, Fort Margherita, Old Court House, the magnificent new State Legislature Building, and Old State Mosque. Stroll the Kuching Heritage Walk, exploring the Waterfront and its surroundings. This is also where you can shop for souvenirs and local handicrafts:
-Iban, Murut, Kelabit and Chinese pottery: ceramic stools, drinking water cisterns, decorative jars and vases, lamps, candle holders, ashtrays, teapots, mugs and even photo frames.
-wood carvings, stylishly crafted Kayan and Kenyah wooden spoons to ten-foot-tall guardian figures crafted from solid belian (ironwood), wooden bowls, charms, ritual masks, Melanau sickness-healing figures(blum), longhouse doors, blowpipes, hornbill figures for Iban Gawai Kenyalang, the hornbill festival.
- pua kumbu material; woven art with exquisite patterns tied-and-dyed on vertical threads. sarongs, carpets, decoration, garments and overthrows. Kain songket of the Malays are hand-woven textiles of gold and silver threads combined with fine cotton or silk yarn, similar to Kelantan and Indonesia, a legacy from the Brunei Sultanate.
- beadwork jewelry, ornaments, garlands.
-bamboo containers, kitchenware, flooring, fans and pipes for water or tobacco; Bidayuh carving and Penan basketry.
-rattan and reed mats, woven baskets, Bemban reed baskets, purses and handbags.
-Terendak hats: conical-shaped hat originating from the Melanaus.
-pepper: internationally recognized culinary spice, pepper candies and pepper perfume!
-salted Terubok fish: Salted Terubok (American Shad) Fish and terubok eggs.
-Bario rice: finest rice from the highlands of Sarawak, consumed by the longhouse chief on special occasions.
-Sarekei pineapple: a special species of pineapple, native to this town.
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