Iguazu falls are a great as everyone says...and then some. I've seen amazing waterfalls in Canada, Alaska, France, Hawaii and all over the U.S. but never, NEVER imagined this experience of being in one of the most beautiful natural wonders of the world. It's not just the magnificence of the falls, but also the town, the people, the awesome hotel where I stayed and my adventure into Brazil without a visa.

I spent two days in the park. Everyone else just spends one; walks all the routes, sees all the falls, eats in a hurry and are completely exhausted by the end of the day. I love waterfalls, but mostly, I love to be with them in private moments, just me and the water, no one else. I went the first day to find out what it was all about, did all the touristy things and had my picture taken by the professional photographers that abound at every turn. I even went under the falls in a raft and got soaked, along with my camera and my binoculars. It was totally worth it!

The next day I went again so I could find an isolated spot and just listen to the water, be with nature and commune with my own God. It was absolutely fantastic. There's a rock in San Martin Island that's rarely visited, yet it faces the major falls and receives little mist. It was a very hot this Spring day in December, so the breeze from the water falling hundreds of feet below me was welcome. I've never been at such peace with myself, I've never experienced such bliss and calm. After about an hour sitting on that rock, at times crying and thanking God for such beauty, I wasn't even bothered that I lost the trusty camera I've carried on all trips for the last 3 years. I told myself that if I wasn't supposed to take any more pictures, then I would accept such fate, and would make sure my journals would tell a thousand words instead.

The taxi driver told me to call him when I was done and he would come pick me up. He was there in 15 minutes flat. Considering it's at least a 20 minute drive from town, I was really impressed. It was three in the afternoon and I asked him what else there was to do. He offered a few other places.

After changing at my hotel, George (not his real name) returned. Most of you know how much I hate to shop just for the sake of shopping, but the Aripuca Museum, along with its local souvenirs tempted me to buy Christmas presents. My purchase also helped the Guarani people who make them by hand.

Next was the semi-precious stone museum. Again, more presents and beautiful stones went into my overfilled bags to take home. When I got back into the taxi and asked George where to next he said: "What do you like to see? it's evening already and you've already bought everything there's to buy in this town."

I laughed and mentioned the Rafain show in Brazil, just across the bridge from Argentina. He hesitated and asked me if I had a visa. North American citizens are required to pay $150.00 for a visa to visit Brazil and it takes 3 days to obtain one. I said I didn't have time to get it in Buenos Aires. I watched as he picked up his cell phone and asked someone about taking me to Brazil.

I held my breath. How exciting that I would be crossing the border from Argentina to Brazil without a visa. Would I get arrested? Would I be deported back home without dinner?

George was a pro. He said we would go shopping at a duty free shop which was beyond the Argentinean border, then we would sneak into Brazil to see the Rafain Show. We would take our chances coming back after the show. He specifically told me I had only 35 minutes to shop as he didn't want me to be late. We didn't have reservations at the show and he was just winging it. I trusted him with my life.

The shopping spree bought me a new camera. I know, I know, electronics are cheaper in the States, however, this beauty was reduced for the holiday season by $200.00 -I also didn't have to pay taxes and if I charged it to my AMEX, I would get back 3% at the end of the year. Not a bad deal, the price was the same as if I bought it at home, plus... I got a free 8GIG card. I didn’t regret it.

The problem was my 35 minutes were over and the line to pay was long and slow. George came to my rescue again and managed to get me to the front of the line with just a few words to the manager. Now I was REALLY impressed! Why had I paid all that money to touring companies anyway? George had been my personal driver and tour guide for an entire day for a measly $70.00 tip included (and a generous one too!)

Off we went to see the show which was GREAT! No problem with the no reservations and not understanding Portuguese all that well. The hostess took a look at me and another at George, said a few words I did not understand and soon I was sitting at a table in the front row, right smack in the middle of the room. The other three place settings were vacated and I had the entire table to myself. I completely pigged out on everything on the fabulous buffet filled with Vegas style food, including the now famous Parrilla.

The show was fabulous with all the South American Countries represented and a special emphasis on Mexican dances. The MC spoke in Spanish and Portuguese but his English was atrocious. Luckily he wasn't too enthusiastic about the few Anglos in the room and he kept his English ranting to a minimum.

At 11pm, just before the show ended I left and went to find George. I wanted to beat traffic across the bridge so we wouldn't have problems crossing the border. George worried me when he asked me to take the camera out of its new box and make it look like I've had it with me for months. My souvenirs were scattered all over under the seat of the car and the trunk emptied. He also asked me to pretend I did not speak Spanish. I began to worry as we approached the customs line which was already crowded. I gave my passport to George and said a small prayer.

Just before we arrived at the window the lights went out. There had been a storm brewing all night and the electricity was out. By the time we got to the window the man just waved us along. George insisted that I needed an 'entrance' stamp (my passport had been stamped as being exited as we left Argentina) and he did not want me to have any other troubles when I left to go home. The man had a puny flashlight and quickly stamped it without looking at it or questioning it much. Next, two women came and looked inside the car, I didn't move nor wiped the sweat from my brow. George opened the trunk, flirted with the girls and wished them a dry evening. We were back in Argentina safe and sound.

The next day I left for Bariloche and wrote a few hundred words in my journal. Most of them were of thanks to God for keeping me safe, giving me a new camera so I can bring home lots of wonderful pictures and having the adventure of my life.

Dinner in Brazil $50.00
Personal Taxi Driver and Guide $70.00
My Adventure in Argentina and Brazil... PRICELESS!

Don't try this at home, this is only for professionals.

If you want to see more pictures copy the following link into your browser:
http://tinyurl.com/2foth3a

Remember to always be a traveler and never a tourist.

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(¸.•´ *Renáe Lindsay
Adventure Travel Writer
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