Baja California: Guadalupe Canyon
An isolated canyon where the hot water runs free.
Photo by Renae Lindsay
Destination: Guadalupe Canyon, Baja California
Location: 80 miles east of Mexicali in Baja California
This little known destination is for adventurers and lovers of wide-open spaces, clear skies and complete seclusion. Two families privately own this canyon and the only way to get there is by a very rough road and with a high clearance vehicle, preferably a 4WD.
I had the opportunity to visit this canyon with a group of friends in December. We met the son of one of the owners who guided us into the canyon. It was a good thing he did; otherwise, we would have never found it. There’s only one road in from the main Hwy 2 once we crossed the border into Mexico but it forks out several times and meets again; one could easily get confused and panic. We drove the entire day to get there with awful weather that slowed us down considerably. However, once we got there the skies cleared, and everything was clean and beautiful.
The best feature of this destination is the hiking into the canyon and the natural spring waters that feed the many pools into the campground. Each site has its own pool where the water constantly feeds from the main source. As a result, the pools are crystal clear and the water can be very hot but fortunately the temperature is adjustable. The relaxing effect while sitting on the secluded pools and the hot water is very soothing after a day of hiking into the canyon.
I went the weekend of the Geminids Meteor Shower on December 12-13, 2009. Nights are completely dark as there is no electricity and the city lights are miles away. When the sun goes down the skies shine with every possible star in the horizon. We got up at 3am to view the spectacle of the meteors burning as they enter the earth’s atmosphere. For about 3 hours each night, falling stars by the hundreds illuminated the sky and drew sighs and awes from everyone in the campsite. If one turned a light anywhere in the open area, one could see bodies wrapped in sleeping bags and heavy jackets with every head peering out to the sky. It was quite a sight.
There is about a dozen or so campsites, all very secluded and private and there’s also a main pool large enough to accommodate 40 or so people. Our group preferred the seclusion of each of our site’s pools where as few as 4 people could soak at a time very comfortably.
We went on a hike into the canyon lasting most of the morning and into the afternoon. The trail is well marked until the first water fall is visible from above. A short hike and one can be in the water and jump from the rocks in hot days. Further hiking into the canyon the trail is lost but the rewards are more waterfalls, natural pools, and lots of flora particular only to this desert canyon. One can even venture further into the canyon without the possibility of getting lost but for sure, one will be exhausted. The canyon walls are close together so anyone with a good sense of direction will find their way back to the campgrounds in no time.
Amenities include the unique flushing toilet system; it is hot water constantly running. On a cold night, it is soothing to find a warm seat and there is no need to flush as the hot water from the spring is constantly renewed. The owners also have a rustic store stocked with basic camping supplies. I found a mantle for my gas lamp that was not even available at the Grand Canyon the last time I checked.
Before we left, our guide took us on a tour of the native people’s petro glyphs. It is about half hour drive to the hike and the uphill rocky trail is difficult to traverse. There were nine of us on this trek and we had to take turns going uphill. Its class 3 rock climbing can be dangerous and only recommended doing with a professional guide. Once there, we heard the history of the natives, how they got there, and how they cooked their meals and made their marks on the rock walls. Remnants of rustic cave dwelling remain and their drawings on the rocks are clearly visible.
Once at the top of this trek the views of the valley below and the canyon behind us are stunning.
We returned via Tecate and traveling the newly built highway 2 is a treat of views of deep rocky canyons and little vegetation. The summers are brutal in this part of the world with temperatures in the +100’s so visiting is recommended in the winter, spring, and fall.
Guadalupe Canyon has a website where more information is available. They offer a shuttle into the canyon if you do not want to drive yourself.
Personally, I think it is more fun to drive a high clearance vehicle, as I did with my friends. We crossed a creek, ventured around the rocks, and drove 90mph in the dry lakebed with nothing around us. The Federales are friendly guards of the Mexican army who protect tourists and ordinary citizens. Cooperation with them is crucial as we exited the country.
A passport is required to travel to any part of Mexico from the U.S.
If you go:
Guadalupe Canyon Campgrounds and hot springs: www.guadalupecanyonoasis.com
Weekday rates $35 to $50 per night
Weekend rates $50 to $199 per night
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