Saturday, October 24, 2009


“Imagination is more important than knowledge.” Albert Einstein

Business decisions aren’t always easy in this day and age, but Talbot Freeman of the White Lion Raw Bar and Bistro has taken the unexpected circumstances life has dished out and remolded them into something better.

Upon learning that his trusted friend and business partner packed up and left town, the silent partner spent 18 months deciding what to do with the restaurant space while continuing to pay rent on what seemed to be a total loss. But good things come to those with patience and imagination. Giving himself plenty of time to dream of what should be in the space at 20 Bayview Street, he continued to work his yacht brokering business in Ft. Lauderdale. The same focused attention that Talbot puts into showing and selling world class mega yachts also went into the revamp of the restaurant space. The result is both a classy raw bar and old world bistro with an elegant, comfortable atmosphere.

The process took careful planning and patience, considerable hours of thought and elbow grease and some convincing to find a chef willing to make the move from sunny Florida to the craggy coastline of Maine. Talbot hauled the chef and his young family from Ft. Lauderdale, promising them they would enjoy the beauty of the area and the abundant variety of ingredients to work with. He personally drove the moving truck over 3000 miles, assisted with getting them into a house, and helped them unpack. The results of his efforts show in every plate that comes out of the chef’s kitchen.

A happy tummy isn’t the only thing awaiting customers at The White Lion. An education on the wonders of fresh, local oysters is here for the curious. Penobscot Bay and its tributaries are a key element in the size, shape, texture and flavor and seasonal availability of the oysters farmed here.

Several varieties of local oysters adorn the sampler platter at the White Lion, most hailing from the Damariscotta River. Oysters are a reflection of the water they come from. These are grown in the brackish water of the river, washed clean with the tide twice daily.

When the platter was brought out, the selection of sizes, shapes and differences in variety became evident. My favorites were the Glidden Points, Pemaquids and the Winter Points. Farmed near the mouth of the Damriscotta River and submerged for a week prior to harvest to remove sediment, these oysters are slightly briny. The New York Times reported in a September 2009 article about the uniqueness of the oysters grown on the Damriscotta River.

Glidden Points – Edgecomb, ME
These beauties are the gourmet favorites of connoisseurs. The meat is simultaneously briny and sweet, firm and plump after four years of growth along the deep waters of the river. Harvested by individual divers, Glidden Points are world famous for their taste, quality and large size.

I enjoyed the Oyster Sampler Platter, Scallops, and a delicious Chocolate Turine. Pan seared scallops, with chanterelle mushrooms, cauliflower puree, proscuitto and a curry emulsion were a delightful way to follow the Oyster Sampler. The Chocolate Turine was light, and the perfect way to round out the meal.

White Lion Raw Bar & Bistro
20 Bayview Street Landing, Camden Maine 04843
Reservations: 207-230-7097
Serving Hours: 4 – 10 pm
Happy Hour 4 – 6 pm
Closed on Tuesdays