Fairy tales really can come true. Our French Country Waterways barge, the Adrienne, moved slowly through the enchanted countryside of the Burgundy wine country of northern France. Our days were spent walking along the pathways of the canal, bicycling into small villages, visiting famous castles and chateaus, tasting excellent local wines and shopping for local treasures in small boutiques and open air markets and dining in a 3 star Michelin restaurant. All of this was ours for a week as we drifted along the Canaal du Centre on our own private floating chateau. From our beautifully appointed suites to the leisurely gourmet lunches, the elaborate five course dinners and an endless variety of local grand cru wines, we were treated like royalty. It is no wonder that Joe, one of our small group of ten, said one evening during dinner, “I don’t think I have ever been this happy.” That simple statement described perfectly the way we all felt because everything possible was provided to make our time onboard the best we could possibly imagine.

Our cruise started on the 25th of October and was to be the last cruise of the season. We met at the Hotel Raphael in Paris and traveled by bus and the high-speed train to our mooring in St. Leger-sur-Dheune. A Champagne Reception and elegant welcome dinner allowed us to relax and get to know our new friends.

St Leger-sur-Dheune is ideally located for a starting point. As you cruise the Canal du Centre you pass through some of the most renowned vineyards of the Cote Chalonaise. The first morning, like those to follow, began with breakfast whenever we were ready. Jeannine was up early to run for five miles along the canal. Marti opted to ride into the vineyards and the local village of Santenay on a bicycle. The rest of us waited until after our second cup of coffee to stroll leisurely along the path. The October leaves were brilliant, the temperature was brisk and along the way we encountered many of the locals out to enjoy their lovely countryside. We passed through a number of locks where the barge would pause and we could return onboard or get off. Whether we sat on the front deck and enjoyed the view or disembarked, it was obvious that no-one was in a hurry.

After lunch we all boarded the bus for a tour of the 12th century Castle of Rochepot. Roche means rock and Pot was the family that owned the castle. So, in effect, it was the Pot family’s rock. As you approach the charming village of La Rochepot, you get your first view of the fairy-tale castle with its multi-tiled roof in vibrant colors of yellow, olive, red, black and ochre, which has stood on its rocky peak since the 13th century. We paused to take pictures before descending into the valley and beginning our tour of the castle. We crossed over the drawbridge and were escorted through the dining room, kitchen, guards’ chambers and various family quarters which gave us a fascinating glimpse of what life was like for the hundreds of lords, ladies, guards, servants and soldiers who called La Rochepot home throughout the middle- ages. My favorite room was the huge kitchen, dominated by a collection of gleaming copper pots and pans hanging from the wall and a huge stove in the middle of the room known as “The Grand Piano.” We were not allowed to take pictures of the interior and it is difficult, in words, to describe the grandeur of the place. At the very top, up three flights of stairs, was the Chinese bedroom which was a gift from a long-ago Empress of China. The room was exquisite and the view was outstanding.

That night we had dinner ashore at the three-star Michelin restaurant, Lameloise. The Lameloise has stood for nearly a century in the little square of Chagny. Its cuisine and wines are synonymous with the traditions of Burgundy. We dined on frog legs, snails cooked in their juice, pigeon, truffles, lamb, veal, a selection of cheeses and the most delightful chocolate dessert. We all agreed that we would go Michelin one better and give the restaurant four stars.

Somehow, it was already Tuesday and we once again began the day with a morning cruise on the picturesque canal. In the early afternoon we drove to the wine village of Rully for a private cellar tour and wine tasting. The wine maker, Sandrine Briday, told us about the wines of the area and explained that all of the wines were made from either Chardonnay or Pinot Noir grapes. We learned that the Grand Cru wines were determined by location and the amount of this premier designation that each winemaker could produce was carefully controlled by the government. The label of each wine must contain the village where it was produced, the year, the winemaker and a host of other information. To those who know wines, the label is like a road map.

Late in the afternoon, we returned to the Adrienne, our floating palace, hotel and gourmet restaurant. It was noted by many of us that we were given ample time to relax, read or perhaps nap after a busy day of touring.

Wednesday morning we left the Canal du Centre and entered the winding Saône River. An early morning fog slowed us down a little, but we were soon on our way to Beaune, the medieval wine capital of Burgundy, which is enclosed by ramparts. Our first and most intriguing visit was to the 15th century Hospices. The Hospices de Beaune is a former charitable 15th century almshouse and hospital. It was founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor and needy. The original hospital building, the Hotel-Dieu, is one of the finest examples of French fifteenth-century architecture. It is visited by more than 400,000 tourists every year. It is now a museum but the tradition continues in a more modern setting by providing services and housing for the poor. At its inception, the hospital was supported in great part by donations of farms, property, works of art and of course vineyards which were made by grateful families and generous benefactors. Auctions of some of the lands and vineyards were held yearly to provide money. The auctions continue into the present time and are held in November of each year.

The large courtyard is impressive and is distinguished by its remarkable glazed tile roofs. Inside, the “Room of the Poors” is an impressive 50 meters long, 14 meters wide and 16 meters high. The ceiling is an upside down boat-skiff shape. The room is furnished with two rows of curtained beds. Each bed could accommodate two patients if necessary. No one was turned away. It is rather overwhelming to imagine the crowding and chaos during times of the plague. The central area was dedicated to benches and tables for meals. Following our tour, we walked to the historic quarter of Beaune for an excellent lunch and time to wander the narrow streets of the village. Later, some of us returned to the Hospice to extend our tour. That night we moored in the port town of St. Jean-de-Losne.

We began our morning with a visist to the 12th century abbey, the Clos de Vougeot, which is headquarters of the Chevaliers du Tastevin whose special labels are awarded annually to the finest C?te-d’Or wines. We were treated to a private tasting.

In the early afternoon we cruised on the Burgundy Canal to Thorey-en-Plaine where we drove to the family-owned, 15th century Chateau de Longecourt. For me, this was another highlight of the week. The chateau, surrounded by moats,,has survived through many years of French History. The chateau is now home to Roland de Saint-Seine. His brother lives in the small village adjacent to the chateau. The chateau is owned by the extended family. Roland gave us a personal tour of “his home.” It is filled with priceless antiques, paintings, scrolls’ and dishes. Never were we told not to touch or to not take pictures. Roland was comfortable with his surroundings and he wanted us to be too. He handed an especially old artifact to one of our group as he explained that he had found it in his garden while tending his roses. It was the oldest antique that any of us had touched. During the war soldiers were quartered in the chateau and they left in the attached barn, 10 foot cartoons depicting life in the military. The cartoons have been preserved and have since been visited by a reunion of the soldiers who lived in the chateau.

The chateau rents out a small number of rooms to those who wish to experience the ambience of a time long gone by. They also host a select number of weddings and charity events. Otherwise, it is Roland’s home where he lives alone with his gardens, dog, birds and his museum quality furnishings. To inquire contact: www.chateauxandcountry.com/chateaux/longecourt/struct.html.

It is Friday, and the week, however leisurely, has gone by too quickly. We are approaching Dijon, our final mooring. Some of us accompany, Glen, our captain, into Dijon on an early morning shopping trip to the open-air market, where we browse in the specialty shops and peruse the overwhelming displays of meat, cheese, fruit and vegetables. Later in the day we return to Dijon to spend time in the museums, churches and art galleries that make the city a favorite tourist destination.

In the evening, our final event is the Captain’s Farewell Dinner on board the Adrienne. Dressed in our finest, we spent three hours appreciating the ultimate in food and wine. It was Halloween and the crew had decorated our private chateau with decidedly modern decorations including two intricately carved pumpkins which also provided our pumpkin soup. It was idyllic. We had proven that, if only for a week, fairy tales really do come true.

Contact: 800-222-1236 www.frenchcountrywaterways.com.