As the train sluggishly moves through the forests of Dehra Dun in its last leg of journey from New Delhi, and sunlight trickles down on the misty May morning, one gets the first glimpses of the Shivalik Hills…and ensconced on these hills is the beautiful hill-station of Mussoorie (altitude of 6950 feet)

A one-hour drive from Dehra Dun station, the journey uphill through snaky roads is indeed an enchanting one. The incessant stretch of pines, the structured greens of terrace cultivation, the sturdy deodars, the bright-pink bougainvilleas, the crisp red rhododendrons, the pure-white kethals - all produce a fascinating interplay of colors under the azure skies of Garhwal.

A halcyon past

The charm and the enigma of Mussoorie is intact to this day, and like many other hill-stations of India, bespeaks of a past that was grand, luxurious and fascinating. It was in 1827 that a British officer named Captain Young discovered this unknown wooded hamlet and built his residence here….and soon Mussoorie’s splendid climate and sylvan appeal struck a chord with the Victorian English gentry-who were earnestly looking for a peaceful summer getaway. Mussoorie soon became the idyllic landscape for honeymooners, for cheerful soirees, and fun-filled polo matches and horse rides. Since then the place has remained a much-loved summer destination for the young and old alike. Interestingly, the town is named after the ‘mansur’ shrub, which grew in abundance here, and was used by shepherds to graze their cattle.

A canvas of contrasts

Today’s Mussoorie has a unique flavor – with gothic-style churches, institutions known for their century-old legacy, and peace-loving locals on one hand, and the invasions of modernity on the other. A canvas of contrasts- here cascading waterfalls, sedate relics of the Raj, a serene Buddha Mandir stand firm and proud against the hustle and bustle of shops selling tacky perfumes with ‘imported’ labels, video-game parlors, cybercafes and noisy travelers on it's arterial Mall Road.

For those seeking peace and calm, try visiting the St Paul’s Cathedral (the oldest cathedral here) or set foot on Lal Tibba (the highest point in the area)- from here you can see the stretch of the snow capped Himalayas.

The Buddha Mandir is also a good alternative for those looking for a peaceful retreat here. The hum of buddhist chants, prayer flags fluttering against the rowdy winds, and the mellow glow of lamps are part of this uniquely tranquil experience. Incidentally, it was here that the first Tibetan settlement in India was built after the mass exodus from their homeland in the early 60’s. You’ll thus find a considerable Tibetan population here– some selling their traditional crafts on the busy Mall road; others employed in the many Tibetan schools; and those who have taken to the spiritual path as monks.

Near and Far

Probably among its most beautiful places is the famous Camel’s Back Road- winding along a jutting peak and shaped like a camel’s hump. A walk down this quiet road is the best way to savour the sights and sounds of these hills; and especially in spring when the road is bedecked with myriad colourful flowers. You can also however opt for a horse ride here. For those yearning to soak in the enigma of the Himalayan peaks, the ropeway ride to Gun Hill is your best bet- the panoramic view of these majestic ranges from the cable cars is simply breathtaking; and on a clear day you can view the grandeur of the Kedarnath, Badrinath, Bandar-Poonch, Sri Kantha and Nanda Devi peaks from here.

There are many places of interest around Mussoorie. If you’re a nature-lover a visit to the fascinating Kempti Falls is a must. Located at about 15 km from Mussoorie, and at an altitude of 4,500 feet, this waterfall derives its name from the words ‘Camp-tea’, the joyous tea parties organised by the English gentry who visited here. The famous Surkhanda-Devi temple on the Mussoorie-Tehri Road is a popular religious destination; while a newly built man-made lake, towards Dehradun has been drawing steady crowds as well.

But a visit to these hills remains incomplete without meeting the man whose picturesque details of the hills, and sensitive portrayals of the life and living of its ordinary people, conjured those magical images in our young minds – Ruskin Bond, the suave and soft-spoken author lives here with his adopted family. You might suddenly come across his aging frame strolling past you – unassuming and unperturbed by all the attention. Remember not to miss out on the opportunity to grab a quick snapshot of the legend!

Night Charm

As dusk sets in and the sky is lit up with a thousand sparkling stars, the silent hills stealthily unfold their night charm, like a seductress waiting to douse you; while faint tunes of a Garhwali folk song from somewhere in the hills wafts through the crispy breeze to soothe your ears.

Mussoorie leaves an indelible impression on your mind – its forests, old churches, cherubic smiles of children are images that linger on. They remind you of Rudyard Kipling’s famous words…”the smell of the Himalayas, if it once creeps into the blood of a man, he will return to the hills again and again and will love to live and die among them.”

Snapshots

Mussoorie is about 38 Kms from Dehradun by road. The town is well connected by road from Delhi, Chandigarh and Roorkie. From Delhi, it’s around 290 kms.

Mussoorie overlooks the exotic Doon valley below, which comes alive in the evening as lights are lit.

There are many hotels and guesthouses here. Popular among these are the Holiday Inn Grand Hotel, Valley View, Classic Heights, Brentwood, Connaught Castle and Rockwood. Colonial cottages are also available on lease here.

The best time to visit Mussoorie is between March-June and September-October. However there are those who come here in winter, only to savour the sheaths of snow that cover the entire town!