“It is not enough to say I have been there. A voyage is not just a journey; it’s a period carved out of time.”
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Cruising the eastern Mediterranean in these politically turbulent times at first inspired thoughts of concern, fear, and doubtful glances from friends and family members. The combination of romantic ports, historical sights, insight into some of our earliest civilizations, and shopping bonanzas (despite a weak dollar) tempted our wanderlust. Because the distance was long and the time was short, we decided sailing would offer the most efficient and relaxing way to sample the ancient cultural regions throughout the Mediterranean, Ionthian and Aegean seas.

We embarked on the cruise of Roman and Greek empires in Civitivecchia, a port seventy miles outside of Rome.

We arrived early in the morning in delightful Sorrento, Italy, which is in close proximity to several must-see sites. Nearby was ancient Pompeii, located at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, which erupted in 79 A.D. Pompeii is considered one of the world’s finest ancient archeological sites depicting daily life in the Roman Empire. The temples, homes, shops, and the great forum seem arrested in time on the day Vesuvius erupted and covered them in volcanic ash. The mosaics, frescoes and statues add to this moving experience. One note of caution, Pompeii is a popular tourist spot and heavily trafficked site. It is best to hire a tour guide and stay close to your group.

Mount Vesusius, one of the few remaining active volcanoes in Europe, is about a forty-five minute drive from Pompeii. Getting to the actual crater involves a vigorous hike, and again, stay close to the local guides to avoid the lava flows. But once you reach the top, the panorama is spectacular. Remember to wear comfortable shoes, dress in layers and bring plenty of water.

Italy’s Amalfi Coast was originally a major maritime center up until the 12th century. As you travel along the nineteen miles of winding roads on the seaside cliffs, the view of the Bay of Naples is breathtaking. We stopped in Positano—the prettiest, and most popular village along the rocky shoreline. It has changed significantly since 1953 when writer John Steinbeck lived in the then, remote, sleepy fishing village. Today it is a popular, vibrant resort with great scenery, restaurants, boutiques, and has become a hot spot for the international elite. The local cuisine, especially the mozzarella cheese, is not to be missed. Wash it down with one of the succulent Positano wines.

Capri, otherwise known as the “Island of Love”, attracts famous actors and actresses, writers, poets, artists, and a lot of international tourists. Getting there includes a twenty-minute jetfoil ride from Sorrento to a . funicular (cable car) which takes you to Anacapri, the top of the island. Here designer shops compare to Madison Avenue. The Caesare Augustus Gardens enchant the eye with both its flora and the vista over looking the bay. The Blue Grotto, (Grotta Azzurra) perhaps the most famous marine cave among the many in Capri, inspires complete romance. It is refracted light through the water that gives it a mystical shade of blue and it’s hard to believe that the water is not dyed! To get there, take the jetfoil from Sorrento and pick up the boats to the Blue Grotto right in the harbor. The Blue Grotto is not the best tourist site for young children or elderly people who might have difficulty getting into the tightly packed boats.

The recorded history of Sicily, our second port, dates back to the 8th century B.C. It is the largest island in the Mediterranean and has been occupied by the Greeks, Phoenicians, Tunisians, Normans, French and Spanish. The many cultural overlaps in Sicily make it different from any other part of Italy.

We arrived to see a crowded beach with colorful wooden umbrellas and small fishing boats dotting the harbor. A visit to Mount Etna, a Sicilian icon, is a popular tourist destination but we took the six-mile uphill drive to Taormina, the favorite vacation sport of Sir Winston Churchill. We walked the cobblestone streets and passageways for hours, lunched at a local café on the piazza, went in and out of shops, and visited the Greco-Roman theatre, before catching a road-rally of Ferraris in this small medieval town. This charming Italian port is noted for hand-made linens, wooden Pinocchio’s, and gold jewelry.

We left Italy for Santorini, Greece. Santorini is the largest of a group of six islands in the southern Aegean Sea and was once an active volcano. Legend has it that Santorini was the site of the sunken city of Atlantis. Like Taormina, the village is situated on a cliff and is accessible from the port by cable car to Fira Town. Again, there is no shortage of jewelry shops although fellow passengers agreed that Santorini was pricier than some of the other ports. The beaches here are quite unusual—pick your color…red, black or white. The red beach, near Akrotiri, is composed of crushed lava sand, whereas the black beach is a result of volcanic spawning. The most popular beach in the region is Perissa.

Our next stop was Kusadasi, Turkey. Because of current events and recent bombings, other trips rerouted their itineraries away from this Middle Eastern country. But we felt safe. It is a fascinating country bridging European and Asian cultures.

Kusadasi means Bird Island and was one of the first beneficiaries on the Aegean coast to reap the benefits of modern Turkish development. When you disembark at the port, you will see Guvercin Adasi, otherwise known as Pigeon Island, a stone fortress surrounding a park with a first class restaurant. Overlooking the port from high up on the hillside is a huge statue of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey. The name Atatuk, was granted to him by the Turkish government and means “father of the Turkish people.”

Almost everyone who arrives in Kusadasi is headed for Ephesus, the site of the Temple of Diana, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

Ephesus, on the coast of Asia Minor, was one of twelve cities of Ionia and an ancient Greek religious center. After the Romans assumed control it gained importance as a commercial center with traders and Christian pilgrims. Originally a major port, silt deposited into the Aegean and Ephesus is now located three miles from water. It is easily the most magnificent archeological site in the Aegean region as it was the melting pot of important societies and cultures. Ephesus is best known for its sacred shrines, the famous Temple, celsus library, grand theater, and hill houses, where wealthy residents lived. It even had running water with aqueducts diverting mountain springs into homes. More than 250,000 people lived there yet only forty percent of the site has been excavated so far. Because there are no shaded areas, it is imperative to wear a sun hat on your visit.

There is no shame attached to the fact that Kusadasi is a mecca for tourism. It is a popular site for visitors from Germany and England who rent flats there during the summer. The town feels like a great big Turkish bazaar, buzzing with merchants (wearing suits and ties) selling their wares. Most popular purchases include carpets, leather goods, and jewelry. Gold, specifically, is very inexpensive in Turkey, probably half the price of Taormina or Santorini. Bargaining is de rigueur and considered an art, a sport, or a necessity. Although the merchants can be somewhat relentless, we were able to get some decent prices. For pricier items such as rugs and gold we preferred to frequent the shops endorsed by Radisson. The currency in Kusadasi is the Turkish lira but euros, American dollars, traveler’s cheques and credit cards are accepted.

We sailed to Istanbul through the Bosphorous Strait, the only marine entrance to the Black Sea. Istanbul, formerly known as Constantinople, was renamed in 1930. It is the largest city in Turkey although Ankara is the capital. The approach the Istanbul, a city that bridges two continents—Europe and Asia—is magnificent. The landscape of more than 135 mosques with domes and minarets dominates the skyline. The city is a blend of commerce and meditation. Listen for the call of Muezzin throughout the day as a reminder to the Muslims that it is time for prayer.

Hagia Sophia (Ayasofia in Turkish), arguably the most famous mosque in Istanbul, is now a museum. It was constructed by Emperor Justinian in the sixth century because he wanted to create the world’s most magnificent church. It remained the largest Christian church in the world until it was converted to a mosque in the sixteenth century. For a perspective on the size of the cathedral, if the Statue of Liberty stood inside the Hagia Sophia her torch would barely touch the top. A debate raged on for years whether Hagia Sophia should be a church or a mosque. This controversy led Ataturk to declare it a national monument in 1935 to avoid any threat to its existence. It is impressive from the exterior but truly spectacular from the inside view.

The Blue Mosque stands out in the vista because it is the only mosque with six minarets (most have two) and is a classic example of Ottoman architecture. The blue hue inside this alluring structure is a result of more than 21,000 azure colored tiles. Sultan Ahmet built it between 1609 and 1617 when he was fourteen years old. His ambition to build an imperial mosque also included a determination to build a monument to rival the Hagia Sophia. It is mandatory to remove your shoes upon entering the mosque and plastic bags are provided at the front door so you won’t lose them. One of our friends remarked that the whole place smelled of dirty feet but we were overcome by the magnitude and history of the mosque. Although she was probably right, we didn’t notice!

Don’t miss Topkapi Palace, one of the richest palaces and home to the sultans throughout the 19th century. It sits atop one of the seven hills of the city overlooking the sea and the entrance gardens of Topkapi are splendid with rose trees. The National Treasury, as well as the vast collection of porcelain, armor, and weapons, are crowd-pleasers. Part of the collection is the Spoonmaker’s Diamond, and eighty-six carat gem, which surpasses every woman’s dream. The mass of riches is indescribable and if possible, devote at least half a day to Topkapi.

The Grand Bazaar is a shopper’s paradise, or nightmare, depending on your perspective. There are over 2600 shops. Again, the same rules apply as in Kusadasi…bargain, bargain, bargain. Traffic is usually heavy in the Sultanahmet District so allow for extra time. Perhaps the most important thing you’ll need to know at the Grand Bazaar is kac para?, which means “how much” in Turkish.

We flew home from Istanbul after an early morning breakfast. It was an exhilarating week where we visited a comprehensive selection of places, steeped in history and ancient civilization—highly recommended for the curios traveler.