With the Americanized party town of Cabo San Lucas to its west, and the high-profile tourist destinations of Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco to its south; Mazatlán is often overlooked as a destination of choice along the Mexican Riviera.

Once a robbers roost for cutthroat pirates, the city, which was founded in 1531, is now Mexico’s leading port catering to cargo and cruise ships alike.

It was in the 1940s that Mazatlán began to attract the interest of Hollywood stars like John Wayne, John Houston and Gary Cooper who came to enjoy the region’s spectacular sport fishing.

Others followed. And as a new generation of luxury hotels began to blossom along the long stretch of white sand beach, now known as “The Golden Zone,” Mazatlán’s historic district (the Centro Histórico), and its grand colonial architecture began to crumble.

In recent years, however, the neighborhood has been experiencing an extreme makeover. A serious attempt is underway to revitalize the once grand district as a means to lure tourists back to the city’s center. It’s a process that is far from complete. But during a recent visit it was clear that that real headway has been made.

Many of the once grand houses and business establishments that were built in the 19th century have been (or are being) restored, including Mazatlán’s jewel box of an opera house, the Teatro Angela Peralta (built in 1874). This intimate horseshoe-shaped theater with its rising balconies now features a full schedule of performances including orchestra concerts, ballet and that unique form of Spanish opera known as zarzuela.

One of the most beautiful houses in the district is the Casa Melville, where the author of “Moby Dick” stayed during his adventure on the high seas. Its central courtyard is a sanctuary of serenity, where water drips from an old stone fountain and brightly blooming bougainvillea climb the walls.

A leisure stroll through the district is a delight as the repainted houses with their vibrant colors glow birthday cake bright in the afternoon sun. Local bakeries offer breads and cookies prepared in the traditional manner fresh from the oven. Their aroma is irresistible.

The district is also home to the new Museo de Arte where work by the finest contemporary artists of the region is showcased. Around the corner the Museo Arqueologico offers an interesting (though still modest) collection of ancient artifacts.

Of particular interest, is the Museo Casa Machado. This grand house, built in the 1880s by one of the city’s most prosperous residents, offers visitors a trip back in time as you wander from room to room filled with authentic furnishings. There is also a display of lavish costumes that celebrate the city’s famous annual Carnival.

Outdoor cafes abound, particularly on the outskirts of the Plazuela Machado. And on the day of our visit Mazatlán’s finest local restaurants and hotels combined to throw a banquet on the plaza designed to showcase regional delicacies.

Mazatlán’s world-famous famous shrimp was in abundance— large, succulent and cooked in every conceivable manner. There was aromatic duck mole, crisp plantains and (my personal favorite) soft tacos stuffed with smoked marlin!

Sculptured fruit, a local art form, festooned many of the chef’s tables, featuring watermelons and pineapples carved into elaborate floral displays. There was also a sampling of the region’s fine tequila, which certainly enhanced the vacation atmosphere.

You don’t have to walk far from the historic district, however, to find part of downtown Mazatlán that still remain shabby, and in a sense, more authentic. This is the area defined by the cathedral plaza and the nearby Mercado Municipal, where low-cost tourist items and mountainous piles of green and red chilies vie for purchase.

Though clearly in a state of transition, Mazatlán is dusting itself off and making a genuine effort to revitalize interest in its historic culture, delectable cuisine and eye-pleasing architecture. So, if you go, don’t limit yourself to the high-priced predictability of the Golden Zone. Head downtown. It’s definitely worth a visit.

FYI

Mazatlán, in the Mexican state of Sinaloa, is easily accessible by land (on the Panamerican Highway No. 40), sea (through its main port) and air.

For information on the region:
www.mazatlan.gob.mx, www.visitmexico.com and www.vivesinaloa.com.
For hotel and restaurant information: www.hellomazatlan.com.

Sights of interest in Mazatlán’s Historic District:
Museo de Arte, Calle Sixto Osuna y Venustiano. (669) 9-81-55-92.

Museo Arqueologico, Calle Sixto Osuna, No. 76. (669) 9-81-14-55.

Museo Casa Machado, Calle Constitución, No. 79. (669) 9-82-14-40.

Teatro Angela Peralta, Plazuela Machado Diario Horracio De, (669) 986-38-36.