Los Cabos: Land of a Thousand Faces
From extreme partying to meditative relaxation, from the desert to the sea, think Los Cabos
Photo by Jim Farber
Less than two hours from Los Angeles by air, the Mexican coastal cities of Los Cabos (located at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula) offer a tourist escape of the first order.
Whether your taste runs toward outdoor sports and adventure, fine dining, extreme partying, romantic seclusion, or luxurious relaxation, Los Cabos is sure to please the most demanding traveler. And it’s also an ideal family getaway.
The 20 miles of beachfront property— “The Blue Ribbon” — that connects the historic city of San José del Cabo (founded by the Spanish in 1730) with the ultimate party town of Cabo San Lucas, abounds with elegant resorts, perfectly manicured golf courses, the famous surf spot known as “Zippers,” climaxing at “El Arco,” the spectacular ocean-carved arch that marks the tip of the Baja Peninsula. And it’s all accessible by plane, car or boat.
Los Cabos is also a region of extreme contrasts: social, historical and ecological.
During a recent visit, that happened to coincide with spring break, I found Cabo San Lucas party town central, with local watering holes like the Giggling Marlin open until the wee small hours dispensing pitcher after pitcher of marguerites to an onslaught of college students eager to celebrate their rite of spring.
Amazingly, just two miles away the 154 room, adults-only Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Holistic Retreat and Spa offered an entirely different sense of the world. Set on a long stretch of white sand beach on the Pacific side of the peninsula, this architecturally impressive retreat with its clean-lined, cream-colored structures and artistically conceived landscaping (both designed by architect Fernando Molins) is all about the transformative power of peaceful tranquility and sumptuous delights.
Framed by rocky peaks, azure skies and pounding breakers, Pueblo Bonito Pacifica is Shangri-La on the Pacific.
From the moment you enter the resort’s spacious lobby with its bubbling fountains and panoramic ocean view, you find yourself absorbed in a realm of sensual comfort accentuated by the stylish interior décor by Olivia Alderete Hass. A scent of lavender fills the air accompanied by the lull of New Age music. The staff is exceedingly gracious and if you can’t relax and unwind in this setting, you’re out of luck.
During my stay, I must admit, I indulged. I took advantage of the Armonia Spa’s gentle steam room and still-water hot tub/cold plunge combo. Then I treated myself to one of the spa’s signature beachside cabana massages, where all tension disappeared accompanied by the sound of birds and the crash of waves on the shore. Watching the sunset from one of the hotel’s king-size canopied beach-beds left me in a state of pure karmic tranquility.
The development of Cabo San Lucas as a tourist Mecca is a relatively recent event, and the opening of the Pueblo Bonito Pacifica in April, 2005 represents one of its newer additions.
To appreciate the region’s historic past you really need to walk the streets of San José del Cabo, with it colonial period architecture, flowering gardens and fine old mission plaza.
With assistance from a substantial expatriate community of Americans and Canadians, this historic district is also emerging as a major art gallery center. Thursday nights ( from 5-9 p.m. November-June) the streets comes alive as 16 galleries open their doors to promenading crowds. You can then complete your visit by dining at one of the region’s fine restaurants and cantinas including restaurant H, Casianos or enjoy a rooftop repast at the Terrace Bar.
In addition to its exceptional water sports (snorkeling, scuba and sport fishing) and multitude of golf courses, the interior desert and mountains of Los Cabos offer a stark beauty all their own.
The best way to explore this arid landscape of cactus and scrub brush is by four-wheel drive vehicle, since few of the roads are paved and steep gullies abound. It is also an ideal destination for backpacking and camping. But, as the Boy Scouts say, “Be prepared.”
The explosion of growth that has occurred over the last 20 years in the Los Cabos region has brought abundance to the region. It has also put a strain on the fragile desert ecology. In a land where water is always an issue, recycling and the desalinization of seawater has become a required component of all major developments.
Unfortunately, as the worldwide economy has cooled, construction in Los Cabos, according to a local representative, has all but come to a stand still, leaving a large segment of the emigrant work force unemployed. As a result, a makeshift barrio has arisen on the outskirts of Cabo San Lucas. Known as Mesa Colorado, its residents live in slum conditions without electricity, garbage collection or running water. It’s a potentially dangerous situation, a local spokesperson admitted, that has led to an increase in crime. Even so, the state of Baja Sur (of which Los Cabos is part), remains one of the safest tourist destinations in all of Mexico.
You should also be aware that during the height of summer (July-September) the temperature, especially inland, can climb to over 120 degrees! Spring, winter and fall are the ideal times to visit.
Right now temperatures are still moderate (80s by day, 60s by night) and all of Los Cabos is awash in color as spring flowers put on their annual show. Even the desert is in bloom with every variety of cacti sprouting the most vibrantly colored flowers.
It’s a wonderful time to travel south of the border.
If You Go.
Los Cabos is accessible by air, land and sea.
For general information: Los Cabos Convention & Visitors Bureau
website - www.visitloscabos.travel.
Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Holistic Retreat and Spa
(800) 990-8250, www.pueblobonitopacifica.com
Room rates: $300 (high season), $250 (low season).
Effective February 18, 2009, Pueblo Bonito Oceanfront Resorts and Spas’ “Stimulus Package” will provide various added value incentives and discounts. Offers will be applicable during a specific window of time. Travel specials include, but are not limited to, lowered rates, Kids Stay Free, Kids Eat Free, spa credits and free night stays. Some months’ rates could be as much as half off. The “Stimulus Package” will extend until December 31, 2009 and is applicable to all seven resorts. The “Stimulus Package” offers cannot be combined with other promotions.
Backcountry touring: Baja Outback. www.bajaoutback.com.
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