"This is still the most exotic way to see this part of the world, a civilised way to see the backyards of the country" says the train's manager. And I couldn't agree more.

The Orient Express has a mythical quality which has been with me since I can remember. Tales of eccentric and eclectic travellers taking a voyage to far flung places have been lurking at the back of my mind since childhood. Movies, books and stories told had me waiting for the day where I might too, be part of that chosen few, that group of distinguished passengers heading to an exotic destination.

We arrived at Hualampong Station on a hot, muggy morning in Bangkok full of anticipation. Entering the Orient Express lounge, a safe haven amongst the hectic atmosphere that rules the rest of the station was the start to a journey in a parrallel universe. Outside, baggage handlers were scurrying around while passengers waved their goodbyes. Inside, we checked in and were seated for brunch by the Maitre D'. "Would you care to share a table?" he asked before handing over a token. Of course, I thought, who knows who you meet on the Orient Express....

As you step aboard the elegant dark green and cream wagon, you are transported back in time. I fully expected to see two English spinsters, an Austrian baroness and Hercule Poirot having tea in the Restaurant car, while, in the corner, a glamorous blonde puffed seductively from a cigarette holder, as she flirted with a fatherly gentleman.

Once in your cabin, you are greeted by your butler. Ours, Monthian, was the cheerful type, constantly at hand - just in case - and regularly appearing with supplies from breakfast in bed or mid-afternoon tea delivered in style, with a chipper smile and the odd joke and giggle.

Although the train only started to operate ten years ago, the carriages were originally built for the Silver Star in New Zealand. After being totally gutted and refurbished by the team responsible for decorating the British Pullman and the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express trains, the train was equipped with essentials such as air-conditioning and gained its 1930’s colonial feel. In fact, Ulf Bruchert, the train's manager, confides that the train was modelled on the one in the 1932 Marlene Dietrich movie 'Shanghai Express'.

The atmosphere is such, that you are soon totally engulfed in the experience. The intricate marquetry, the plush soft furnishings all in traditional Thai and Malaysian style bring back the aura of a time gone by. You'll be amazed by the beauty of the surroundings and by the lush countryside rushing past, but somehow feel like you've always belonged in a place just like this.

TVs, radios and constant mobile ringtones are conspicuously absent. A luxury and a rarity today. Yet entertainment is everywhere. Simply looking at the view rolling past will keep you busy for hours. From leaving Bangkok and it's tinroofed shacks, houses on stilts and busy communities on the railside to the quieter greener countryside. It's simply impossible to stop looking out and taking in the diversity of life.

The E&O also organise trips off the train to see local sights and on day one of the Bangkok to Singapore route you are invited to step off and visit the Bridge over the River Kwai. This sightseeing expedition includes a boat excursion and a stop at the cemetary where many British and Dutch soldiers lie. As you flow down the river on a covered white barge listening to the history of the place remember to drink plenty of water as the heat can be a knockout - literally for some. To finish off the tour, the guides give a small tutorial on lotus flower folding. Having folded the perfect lotus flower, I felt peculiarly proud of my achievement.

The lush vegetation, Banana trees, Palm trees, Bougainvilla, Acacia trees and Rubber plantations roll past as the train travels into heavier jungle and more exotic greenery from Thailand towards Malaysia.

The ideal spot to view this transformation is from the Observation car. This open air car is specially designed to allow guests to view the tropical environment while sipping a drink and socialising. Being out in the open air helps you appreciate the sights and sounds as well as the smells emanating from the dense vegetation.

In Malaysia a stop is organised to visit Penang. The train stops in Butterworth and allows guests to hop onto a ferry. Penang has a confusing history, having been British, Malaysian and Chinese. The town is colourful and diverse from the people to the architecture, it's a real melting pot of cultures. The visit takes you from a Chinese clan house, impressive with its ornate, colourful and complex carvings, past little India and the legendary Eastern and Oriental hotel, in a tuc-tuc. A good opportunity to see a lot without walking!

Back on the train tea is served daily around 5.30pm in the comfort of your cabin. Silver service, delicate patisseries – not your usual train food!

The restaurant is a highlight of the journey. Dinner is a formal affair where men are expected to wear jackets and ties and the ladies can dress in their finest garb.

The food is worthy of a Michelin star in my opinion. Your taste-buds are in for a treat.

Sampling Grilled Snowfish steak with pan fried vegetables in Peach Soya butter, Clear Wonton soup with Tamlueng leaf and Char Siew of pork or warm Goat's cheese souffle with Fricasee of Lobster, Soya Bean and Thai Asparagus is quite something. And that's only the starters.

Watching the lanscape at night, while enjoying Pan Fried Seabass with Lemongrass Risotto and confit vegetables, Traditional Thai Massaman Chicken Curry or even Aromatic Confit of Duck with Szechwan style vegetables and puree of Black Bean and Cumin, is a unique somewhat surreal experience.

And if that weren't enough the delicately prepared deserts range from Asian mixed fruit crumble served with Roselle Ice Cream, Delice of Chocolate with Cassis Sauce to Warm Mango Tart and sticky rice. After Petit Fours and coffee, dinner guests can go through to the Bar car where a piano provides the entertainment while you enjoy a nightcap.

It's worth knowing that you can 'hop on hop off'. For example alighting at Butterworth in Malaysia, staying there for several nights before joining the train for the rest of its journey. The beach resort of Hua Hin is another place one can step off for a few days holiday. The Eastern Oriental Express can also organise one-nighters but for such a short time it's best to chose the northern Bangkok - Chiang Mai route.

After crossing the Straits of Jahore, the train pulls into Singapore and disappointment sets in. Back to the real world. Your 'train feet' have finally found the right motion but now it's back to solid earth. The experience was all I expected and more. Everything they say is true. The Orient Express legend deserves its glamourous and stylish reputation. Definitely the thing of novels, stories told at dinner parties and the stuff of great memories.