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A Crash Course in Couchsurfing

Surfing sofas through the Americas


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Photo by Matthew Barker



Surfing and Latin America go together like sun and sand, evoking images of Rio's breaks, the beach at Montañita, or perhaps sand-blasted Limeños strolling through Miraflores, board underarm.

Keen surfers have been flocking to ride Latin America's waves for years but more recently, surfing of an entirely different kind has swept through the continent - and this one doesn't require a modicum of balance to be enjoyed.

Known by some as 'hospitality exchange,' to others it's 'travel networking,' but to most, the movement has become known by the name of its main player, Couchsurfing. Based on the simple concept of offering visitors a spare bed or couch, for free, the website claims to have over 911,000 members worldwide, with thousands of new introductions between strangers occurring every day.

Since its inception eight years ago, Couchsurfing has taken on cult status among many travellers, and it's easy to see why. The project actively encourages members to seek more than just free accommodation, but to form new relationships, learn from cultural exchange and to see their destinations through the eyes of a local.

In fact, it's precisely what most independent travellers set out to achieve, but find so difficult given the sheer volume of people making their way around the same saturated hotspots. Backpacking routes the world over seem full of frustrated travellers, struggling against the tidal flow of mass tourism and fighting the realisation that their 'off-the-beaten-path' Shangri-la perhaps doesn't really exist.

And it's as an answer to this problem that Couchsurfing holds the most potential, for as most travellers eventually discover, the 'unique' experiences we seek are often right under our noses, just hidden in the facets of everyday life; the chance exchange with a fellow bus passenger or an invitation to a family home for dinner. It is these encounters that teach us about the places we visit, much more than any guidebook or the faintly narcissistic story-swapping that is endemic to the world's backpackers hostels.

And so when my partner and I decided to hop our way to Peru via Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Ecuador, our first destination was the Couchsurfing website. As new members we had little idea of what to expect but we soon had a string of locals and ex-pats responding to our messages with offers of a couch and willing to introduce us to their town.

Our crash course in Couchsurfing had a few early lessons for us, including the pitfalls of staying with ex-pats, who make up a large minority of all Couchsurfing members in Latin America. Claire, our host in Granada, had settled in Nicaragua's old colonial gem over five years previously and had a large network of ex-pat friends. We were immediately inundated with various invitations; a Thanksgiving dinner on a ranch out of town, a visit to a library set up by the ex-pat community for local children, a performance by a Guatemalan women's rights band at the local art centre; this instant integration into an entirely new community struck us as profoundly welcoming and kind-hearted.

And yet, despite the hospitality of our first host, we couldn't help but feel that we weren't getting the full potential from the Couchsurfing concept. Without doubt we'd been welcomed into a new community, but it was an ex-pat community, and our contact with local Nicaraguans was still often confined to the normal tourist interactions – exactly what we'd hoped to avoid in the first place!

Couchsurfing options outside of the main cities can be very limited and as such we had to wait until San Jose before we could try again. The Costa Rican capital's reputation for dullness is well established, despite the fawning of certain guidebooks, but we arrived determined to find the city's hidden side with the help of our new host; a twenty-something music lover called Pablo who we had chosen carefully, aided by the website's system of member profile pages complete with personal descriptions, interests and age.

According to his profile, Pablo had travelled through South America and Europe while working in the music industry. And on those words we pounced – there had to be a different side to this overcast, concrete place! How did Pablo and other young Ticos keep themselves entertained in the city Paul Theroux described as 'serious, peaceable, the sort of place to get a new pipe stem fitted'?

Alas, we didn't get a chance to shatter all those preconceptions with the vibrant subculture we'd hoped to discover, finding ourselves held back by another great risk to any Couchsurfing visit: an unfortunate location. The further our taxi drove towards the address Pablo had given us, the more we left central San Jose behind. Eventually, in an outer lying, gated and guarded suburb that resembled a prison complex more than a neighbourhood, we met our second host and spent a night in, hearing long complaints about the apparent black hole that is San Jose's music scene.

By contrast, nowhere were we more successful than in Quito, where we arrived on Christmas Eve, panting with the altitude. Squeezed between Volcán Pichincha and a cloud-shrouded mountain range which looms broodingly over the city, Quito is moulded into an elongated strip that is thin enough to cross by foot but so long it vanishes into the horizon. Almost 1.5 million people live in this strand of urban spaghetti but thankfully, our new host lived in a convenient spot, just a few kilometres from the Unesco World Heritage site of Quito old town.

Christmas was a good time to be couchsurfing in Quito. While the boutique hotels and cold water hostels filled up with Ecuadorian holidaymakers and the streets buzzed with activity, watching the chaos from the comfort of a downtown apartment with our host and personal guide was a smugly gratifying way to start our visit.

Standing on the roof of his apartment block as the sun began to set behind Pichincha, Luis pointed out the spires of the old town and beyond it a small hill, El Panecillo ('bread loaf,' so named for its odd shape) on which stands the towering Virgin of Quito looking down over the city. In the foreground ran a long strip of park linking the historic centre with the manic bustle of the new town and in the other direction, a few kilometres north of the city, was the equator and the 'Centre of the World' science museum, a favourite of hemisphere-hopping tourists.

A local guide was a valuable asset in a city with such a bewildering array of diversions. Separating the must-see backwaters that go unannounced in the guidebooks from the over-rated highlights, the 26 year-old IT consultant exuded seasonal goodwill and hospitality with invitations to parties, midnight mass, even the family Christmas meal. Spending these few days as his personal guest gave us a fascinating insight into this heavily visited city and the local introduction that is inherent to any Couchsurfing visit was especially welcome for two foreigners a long way from home on Christmas Eve.

The Couchsurfing phenomenon has thoroughly penetrated Ecuador's provinces but for various reasons including the unavailability of many members during the holiday period, we continued our route towards Peru more conventionally. It also proved difficult to keep in touch with potential hosts while exploring windswept Andean villages where internet cafés are few and far between; this dependence on frequent internet access being one of the scheme's main drawbacks.

Lima, on the other hand, is a Couchsurfer's paradise with hundreds of members offering possibly thousands of sleeping spaces across the city. Not only was Lima our final destination after two and a half months on the road, it was also to be our new home for the foreseeable future. And so a gentle landing into a friendly, comfortable apartment in the Barranco neighbourhood, an oasis of calm at the heart of this sprawling, byzantine city, was an immensely valuable luxury.

For us new arrivals in this vast place, it was reassuring to see that Lima's Couchsurfing membership had become an established community in its own right. The network brings a range of people together; travellers, locals and ex-pats, who use the online system to arrange social interaction in the real world. 'Couchsurfing parties' are held, people exchange information on jobs, events and gigs, introductions are made and new friends are found.

Ironically then, it was only as we finished travelling and started to set up home that the full potential and depth of the Couchsurfing project became clear. And since the whole concept is based on reciprocity, changing our status from 'travelling' to 'couch available' and welcoming our first guest seemed the appropriate ending to our long journey.


Written by

Matthew Barker

on 25 February 2009.

Matthew Barker's Image


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