During the 22+ years that I have traveled to Europe, I have experienced both the strength and weakness of the American dollar. In the 1980’s the strong value of the dollar facilitated European travel. It was an easy process to find accommodations appropriate to a middle-class budget. However, in the past three to four years, traveling in Europe has been monetarily challenging.

With careful scrutiny, we discovered an awesome area in Belgium, the Ardennes. This mountainous, wooded paradise is composed of large, shapely, rocks , rivers, streams, waterfalls, castles, and monasteries. This historical area with its WWII sites and memorials of army tanks and statues of American military, somehow works together with its park-like atmosphere to inspire your soul.

A Jewel and a Castle
In French “La Roche” means “the rock”. After three days in La Roche en Ardennes, to me, the rock was a gem… a jewel. Awakening each morning to crisp, cold, summer breezes, the soft sounds of birds soaring gracefully through the fresh forest air, initiated a serene start to a day filled with options: hiking, boating, swimming, shopping, dining along the River Ourthe and visiting a ham museum and a feudal castle inhabited by a ghost named Berthe. All of these options and hotels were available for a very reasonable price tag in spite of a weak dollar.

There were hotels on the River Ourthe ranging in price from 48 to 80 Euro per night for a double. The fact that a hotel room could be a mere 48 Euro, did not mean that the quality of the room was unpleasant. In other words, for 48 Euro, one did not have to wearily stumble down the hallway looking for a bathroom in the middle of the night. In town center there were many hotels on the river. The Hotel Beau Rivage, at 48 Euro, is literally 14 steps from the river.

However, for 78 Euros, we selected Le Chalet situated above the scenic village of 4000 people, yet only an eight minute walk to the town center. Room 3 is actually a suite consisting of one room with a double bed, TV, and phone, attached to a smaller room with a twin beds, two chairs, and mini bar. The terrace off both rooms offered a panoramic view of trees, the quaint city and the feudal castle.

The awesome ruins of La Roche’s Feudal Castle provide a dramatic skyline overlooking the village. Admission is a mere 1.50 Euro for children and 2.5 Euro for adults. Berthe, the ghost, haunted the town on Saturday nights and the public awaited her eerie visit eagerly.

It was my first visit to a HAM Museum, as the finest ham in the world, “Jambon d’Ardenne”, is enjoyed by all. Move over Breugel and Von Eyck, the pigs have there own museum. OINK!

After three days in La Roche, we traveled 15-20 kilometers to Marche en Fammene, where we discovered the majestic Chateau d’Hassonville, a castle-like structure surrounded by beautiful, wild flowers and a variety of stunning trees. I baptized one the “Harry Potter” tree as it appeared magical and we literally had to drive through it to reach Le Chateau.

The proprietors are so warm and friendly that they made their regal chateau feel like a large family home. In other words, if you had a room, you were an extension of the Rodrigues family.

The cost of our glorious, large bedroom, which featured optional classical music piped-in 24 hours a day, soft, full-length terry cloth bath robes and a magnificent courtyard view, was a mere 130 Euros, which translates to about $165. I have stayed in castle hotels throughout Europe, especially Ireland, for more than double that price.

The courtyard was inhabited by two peacocks, although, we never saw them both at the same time and whimsically they were both named Leo. I can only surmise that the family Rodrigues could not tell them apart so they gave them the same name. One hundred yards from the courtyard was my favorite pet, Jessie. She’s a sweetheart and we became friends instantly

Ducks and swans swam in the large lake encircled by a user friendly trail.

The fountain in the center of the lake provided rainbow and mist allusions, which entertained us for hours . The environs of the Chateau are aesthetically and multi-sensory as you could smell the flowers and trees, hear the duck and swans converse and see the splendor of nature just being itself – serene and refreshing.

The picturesque Ardennes, with its charming panoramas and fresh air will motivate any visitor to return. Without hesitation or deliberation, we wholeheartedly recommend this area of Europe for its affordability, benevolent inhabitants, and majestic beauty.