Costa Rica – A Crime-ridden Adventure Lover’s Paradise?
By Molly McHugh

The first comment I made to my son upon entering Costa Rica was, “Look at those beautiful horses.” Riding a bus from the Nicaragua-Costa Rica border at Alajuela and heading to beaches in the province of Guanacaste it was the first thing amongst the lush, green countryside that stood out. Well-fed, cared-for and living in an almost pristine environment they represent the consciousness that seems to be the essence of the country as a whole – Pura Vida (Pure Life, or ‘all things good’).

Hike a volcano, fly like Tarzan (almost) through the treetops, surf amongst alligators or spend a day sport fishing… whatever your preference is for thrill-seeking or more docile forms of pleasure, Costa Rica has something to offer.

Possible outdoor activities available in the country include: Canopy tours with zip Lines, rappelling and Tarzan Swing; hiking to waterfalls; exploring Nature Reserves; surfing; riding ATV’s on the beach or through the countryside; scuba diving and snorkeling; horseback riding and whitewater river rafting. An online list of additional adventures can be found here on Costa Rica-Guide.com: http://costa-rica-guide.com/what.htm.

There is a downside to current travel in Costa Rica - the high-incidence of theft and increase in violent crime in some areas. For more information see Crime & Safety below.


Canopy Tours

A canopy tour is a sure-fire way to get the adrenalin pumping. Strapped into a harness and connected to a horizontal cable 260 feet or so above ground and up to 1900 feet long, you cross your legs (and maybe your fingers as well) and off you go zipping through the tree tops and over wide expanses of Costa Rican countryside. After a few zip lines you land on a platform and then free-fall approximately 75 feet down on a rope – at least that is what the rappel segment of the tour felt like. In actuality, guides located at the top and bottom of the platform control the rate of speed you travel down the rope and safely bring you to an abrupt stop at the bottom.

To round out the exhilarating experience is the Tarzan Swing where you climb to yet another platform for one more free-fall rush that lasts longer with some swinging thrown in for good measure. You jump (or in the case of my son… are tossed!) off the edge of the platform attached to a bungee cord, drop approximately 100 feet down then whoosh-out before hitting ground, swinging back and forth until they coral you in with an inner-tube.

For the more sedate traveler there are Hanging Bridges tours where you trek along suspension bridges built atop the cloud forests or jungle accompanied by an experienced nature guide.

In some areas of the country, such as the tourist haven of Montezuma on the Pacific coast, your trek or canopy tour may take you above one or more spectacular, natural waterfalls. In Montes de Oro in the province of Puntarenas you can ride 25 zip lines that cross over eleven waterfalls. For more information about canopy tours in Costa Rica: http://centralamerica.com/cr/tours/canopyindex.htm


Surfing

Surfing locations are found throughout Costa Rica on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. On the Pacific side there is Tamarindo Beach in Guanacaste, beaches near the towns of Samara and Malpais on the Nicoya Peninsula and Playa Hermosa in Puntarenas Province. Puerto Viejo in Limon Province is the most popular surf spot on the Caribbean coast and home to the largest wave in Costa Rica – Salsa Brava. Here is an online map of surf locations and breaks in Costa Rica: http://centralamerica.com/cr/surf/surfmap.htm.


Note: Puerto Viejo and other areas in the Limon Province have been experiencing an increase in violent crime including sexual assault, murder and armed robberies. You may want to read this article from Tico Times online prior to traveling, “Fear and Loafing in Puerto Viejo – residents say town suffers from rampant crime as cops just sit around“ online here: http://www.ticotimes.net/topstory.htm. More information about Crime & Safety is below.

Alligators are actually rare, but American Crocodiles are present in large numbers in some areas in the country, such as National Parks with an abundance of wetlands, swamps and large rivers. A list and description of National Parks in Costa Rica can be found here: http://www.anywherecostarica.com/attraction/national-park.htm.

Many surf breaks are at river mouths that may house these creatures and the risk of running into one increases during the rainy season from May through mid-November. Know where you are going when planning a trip and what you may encounter.

Surf Costa Rica.com website has descriptions of surf adventures in many areas of the country: http://www.surf-costarica.com/.


Whitewater Rafting

Whitewater rafting can be found in the Guanacaste, Central Valley, Central Pacific and Northern Lowlands regions of Costa Rica. Information on various rafting tours in the above locations can be found here: http://www.anywherecostarica.com/tours/rafting.htm.

The cost of an all-day rafting trip is approximately $70 USD per adult. Half-day trips are around $50 USD. Some outfitters will provide lunch or snacks, others will not.

Prices of other activities such as canopy tours, snorkeling, horseback riding or a morning of sport fishing are approximately $40 USD and up per person and usually a good value. A half-day trip typically includes round-trip transportation from your hotel to the outdoor destination and experienced guides plus, or course, any necessary equipment.


Cost of Travel

If paradise always comes at a price, Costa Rica is no exception. If you think a trip is going to be cheap, you are in for a very unpleasant surprise. Costs of hostels and hotels can be reasonable at $8-10 USD per bed in a hostel and $20-25 USD for a basic, private double room (more during the high season months of December to April) but everything else adds up quickly. Grocery store items and meals in a restaurant are expensive by Central American standards.

In the small, tourist haven of Montezuma on the Nicoya Peninsula bordering the Pacific Ocean a can of tuna with venduras (vegetables) cost over $3 USD. A jar of peanut butter was marked at $8 USD. The local bakery made delicious Italian and Argentinean-style bread but at $3 a loaf was pricey, similar to what you would find in the U.S. The lowest-priced small chunk of cheddar cheese was $3 USD with many fancier varieties such as herbed Gouda for $5 USD and up.

You must buy and drink bottled water in most areas, as local water is not safe to drink. A 1.5 liter bottle is approximately $1.25 USD. Purified water for two adults can easily add up to over $4 USD per day.

The national brand of beers such as Imperial and Pilsen are affordable at $1-$2 USD but imports such as Budweiser and Heineken purchased in a bar will be around $4 USD per bottle. A box of red or white Clos wine – sold in all Central American countries and usually the lowest-cost option available– is close to $6 USD in Costa Rica, yet sells for around $2.70 USD in Panama.

Casada means ‘married’ in Spanish and is also the word used to refer to the typical Costa Rican midday meal. It is most often the best bargain in a low-end restaurant, or ‘Soda’ as they are called in Costa Rica at around $3 USD. A casada is a plate with a large piece of chicken, beef or pork cutlet and heaping servings of rice, black beans, mashed potatoes (or some version thereof) and salad. If on a budget it’s a life saver.

The government recently increased electricity costs by 11-41% depending on household or business consumption, making not only future travel to the country more expensive but also life for local Costa Ricans – who make on average $300-$400 USD a month – more difficult as well. Fuel and food prices are increasing also. The price of eggs increased 20 cents to $3 USD per kilo. For more information read the article “More Cost of Living Increases for Costa Rica” located online here: http://www.eldoradocostarica.com/English/News/art.php?nNewsCod=218.


Crime & Safety

Costa Rica may emulate ‘Pura Vida’ but is not a perfect, trouble-free paradise. Crime is on the rise, yet there is relatively little violent crime against tourists. Recent, execution-style murders in the country have been found to be drug-gang related. As a visitor to the country, you are much more likely to be affected by a coconut falling on your head.

Theft, however, is rampant throughout Costa Rica and recently in the Lake Arenal region local police reported suspected juvenile criminals robbed over 65% of foreign residences. Tourists are robbed in locked hotel rooms, often times with a wave of rooms being hit in one night in one hotel – and therefore most likely an ‘inside job’. Trekkers hiking alone can be robbed at knife or gunpoint.

Victims of theft and other crimes in Costa Rica are unlikely to receive assistance from local police. The U.S. State Department states in its Consular Information Sheet for Costa Rica that, "Local law enforcement agencies have limited capabilities and do not act according to U.S. standards."

The lack of response by law enforcement is causing some permanent Costa Rica residents to arm themselves with weapons in lieu of fighting off a robber or assailant themselves. In the Puerto Viejo region, locals that are fed-up with increasing assaults and robberies and the lack of response by local police who often witness the events yet still fail to act. The situation has reached critical levels, with some fed-up, law-abiding locals considering hiring ´hit men´ to put an end to the repeated victimization of residents by known criminals who live in the area.

Tourists are beginning to fight back as well. A recent assault on a group of cruise ship passengers in Limon, a port town approximately 55 km north of Puerto Viejo, ended with one of the assailants being killed and the other two chased away. You can read more from this article on USA Today online, <a href=”http://www.usatoday.com/travel/news/2007-02-28-costa-rica-security_x.htm “>”Don’t Fear Costa Rica”</a>.

For a long-term stay or relocation to the country, it would be prudent to research the area extensively, talking to local expatriates and Costa Ricans about crime and safety issues in the area.

Criminal activity varies throughout the country. For a short visit to enjoy the sites and experience thrills such as a canopy tour or water rafting excursion, travelers should not be afraid, just cautious.

More information on travel to Costa Rica including safety and security issues can be found on The U.S. Department of State website: http://www.travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1093.html.


About the Author

Molly McHugh is the author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula that is available for purchase at: http://www.vivalabaja.com.

She publishes Viva La Baja! Blog that can be read here: http://vivalabaja.blogspot.com.