It's 7:30 am. The bus is leaving from Camp Kim American military base in Seoul, South Korea. Passports in tow and ready to be guided through the identification checkpoints everyone on board seems excited. There is a rigid dress and behaviour code on this trip, those on board have already signed a waiver absolving the South Korean government, and the United Nations (UN), of any responsibility in case of enemy attack during the tour. The group is part of the United Service Organizations Ltd. (USO) tours that take visitors to Panmunjeom, the closest tourists can get to North Korea and North Korean soldiers without being shot at.

Panmunjeon is a village, on neutral ground, where diplomatic talks are still being held to this day. It is in the area known as the Demiliterized Zone (DMZ) which separates North and South Korea. The DMZ is four kilometers wide and 240 kilometers long, surrounded, on either side, by electrified fences, watchtowers, and minefields. It is one of the most heavily fortified borders in the world.

An hour after we left, with numerous stops at checkpoints on the way, the bus arrives at Camp Bonifas American military base for briefing. The commands are to the point. The two Koreas are still at war, and this fact is drilled into everyone before the tour begins. Visitors must walk single file into, and out of buildings during the tour, and must refrain from making gestures, of any kind, that could be interpretted as hosile to the enemy. It seems everyone is now even more alert, and tense as the tour gets underway.

Driving through the beautiful landscapes, with forests, and rice fields, it is hard to imagine that there is a war still happening here. But the UN and ROKA have tunnel-detection teams in place, to intercept North Korea's tunnelling activites into the South. The last of which was intercepted in 1978 less than two kilometers from Panmunjeom. Shots have been fired on the Northern side of the DMZ as recently as July 2003.

Every few minutes the landscape changes. ROKA and North Korean soldiers square off just a few centimetres from eachother in a "Taekwondo" intimidation pose. The tension is palpable. North Korean soldiers, flags, and buildings tower overhead. On the other side facing to the north, is a large white, cement building, with soldiers, watchtowers, and someone with binoculars looking over towards the tour. Single file, across the yellow diving line, we are taken up to one the UN buildings. Another ROKA soldier in inside, holding a stance like a statue. It is a simple building, with a long wooden table running down its length, and chairs surrounding it. This is a frightening experience. The tour "guide", an American military officer, informs everyone that the rooms are constantly under surveilance, so that everything can be overheard. But no-one is speaking, so his words echo through the building.

A sigh of relief as the group is guided out of the building, and into the sunshine, across the yellow line, and back into South Korea.

The next stop is the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel discovered by ROKA in 1978. Only 44 kilometers north of Seoul. 1.635 kilometers long, 1.95 meters high, and 2.1 meters wide, large enough to move a full division including all weapons per hour, it is believed to have been designed for a surprise attack on Seoul.

This was a sobering experience and a great way to learn about the conflict directly from those involved.

Tours are run by the USO twice-weekly. They start at 7:30 am, and finish at 3pm. For more information visit the USO website at www.uso.org/korea