Journeys Into A Bygone Era
Excursions to Moscow’s Golden Ring Cities
Chapel of St. Alexander Nevsky built in 1892 in downtown Yaroslavl by Jon Ayres
People come to Moscow for many reasons, the main reason I think is because they want to see a part of the world that was closed off for so many years to the rest of the world. Part of the charm of Russia and her cities, like Moscow, is even though Russia is a modern country, it has still been able to hold on to its past For example, you can spend the night shaking a leg in one of Moscow's modern discos, then the very next day, walk down a street that looks as if you've stepped back into time. You'll feel as if you can expect to see Krivichians marching down the street at any moment. Russia is a country of contrasts and nothing exemplifies these contrasts more than the Moscow region of Russia. Where else in the world can you see a new Hummer 08 parked in front of a church built in the 1300s?
Often I get email from people who tell me that they are coming to Moscow and they want to know what they should visit and see. That is what makes Moscow so great; there is so much to see here. No matter what your interests are, you can find something to your liking not only in Moscow, but on the outskirts of Moscow also. If you're an art lover, then tell Paris to take a hike back to the cheese factory because Moscow is where you'll find the real art. Forget about Buckingham Palace, compared to the Kremlin in Moscow and the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Buckingham is only cooking ham. Moscow is where the action is!
Moscow's “Golden Ring" is one of the oldest Russian roadways running from the north-east of Moscow and forms a circle which today serves as a tourist route running through the cities and villages which encircle Moscow. There are ten main cities and nine smaller villages which encompass the “Golden Ring." The usual route starts from Moscow and goes through Vladimir, Suzdal, Kostroma, Yaroslavl, Rostov Velikiy, Pereslavl-Zalesskiy and Sergiev Posad. These cities are famous for their history and for the many historical and cultural sites where much of early Russian history took place. The visitor's imagination can not help but run wild from the wide variety of landscapes. There is everything from Alpine-like views, vast scenes of forests which border huge fields of various crops, waterways of large lakes and rivers to creek fed meadows. Prince Michael of Kent was so impressed with the Alpine-like views of the village of Plyos that he bought property there to build a resort. Could it be that there is distant Romanov blood returning home to Russia? Not many places in the world today can offer such a wide variety of different types of landscapes and views. The villages of the "Golden Ring's" churches, monasteries, fortresses known as Kremlin are incredibly picturesque. Photographers are really missing out by not coming here. The museums represent the most superb examples of early Russian folk craft-work and history.
“Just why in heck would I want to visit the Golden Ring," you may ask? "I will only be visiting Moscow for a week or two and Moscow is now one of the top tourist spots of the world. After all, Moscow is the largest city in Europe; I just do not have time to see everything." Yes, I know how true that is, I've been living in Moscow myself for the last five years and I'm still making new discoveries everyday. But sometimes you have to get away from the main tourist spots to see the real people, the real history and culture. The Kremlin, Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral are nice and one of a kind sites that should not be missed, but when your one sea gull standing in the middle of a flock of sea gulls, it sometimes just kind of takes something away from the experience. That's why taking a little time to get away from the madding tourist crowds and visiting the out of the way sites like the Golden Ring cities could be your ticket to seeing the real Russia and meeting her people and culture. But you'll have to do it at the right time. During the week is better than weekends. Weekends are just as bad as the main tourist sites of Moscow; crowds swarm these cities every weekend. But during the week, even during the tourist season, it is not bad at all.
If you're interested in Russian History & Architecture, then there is no better place to see it than the Golden Ring. The 'Golden Ring' is famous for its old cities and towns and architecture. The old churches made of white stone and brick, the old fortifications and fortresses, beautiful monasteries, mansions and palaces are everywhere. In many of the villages, you will see buildings that you will find no where else in the world today. Why are photographers not going to these places is just plain stupid! A tour which consists of Vladimir, Suzdal, Kostroma, Yaroslavl, Rostov, Pereslavl-Zalesskiy, Sergiev Posad would be the most interesting for those interested in Russian history and architecture.
There is a lot more to Russia than just Moscow and St. Petersburg. The Russian Federation capital of Moscow can be somewhat disappointing with its crowds, traffic, pollution and size, especially if you're not used to big cities. A trip to the smallest towns of the 'Golden Ring' will enable you to see what I call the real Russia, a calmer and slower lifestyle. Vacations are supposed to be fun and relaxing. Take a short bus or train trip to Suzdal and Rostov Veliky both 3-4 hours by bus from Moscow.
Getting to the various “Golden Ring" cities is not really very hard to do; there are many tour agencies which offer various tours to the many Golden Ring cities. Everything from day trips by bus to one or two cities or week or two week bus trips around the complete ring. There are even summer biking trips around the ring that last two or three months. You can find many of these tours listed on the Internet in English and given by English speaking guides. “Golden Ring" tours are very popular day tours for Muscovites and sell out pretty fast, especially to the more popular cities like Suzdal or Rostov. I would recommend that you book early.
Here is a short intro to some of the Golden Ring cities I think are the best and worth taking the time to visit.
Vladimir
Vladimir is one of the oldest cities in Russia founded in 1108. From 1157 to the mid 1300s) it was the capital of ancient Russia or Russia as it is known today. Among the city's attractions, are three UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These are the Golden Gates which are Vladimir's unofficial symbol, and the Assumption and St. Demetrius Cathedrals. Most of the city's historically significant events occurred after the twelfth century. The city's original purpose was as a defensive outpost for the Rostov-Suzdal principality. Vladimir grew in power and importance and replaced Kiev as the capitol of the Grand Principality of Rus in 1169. The city of Vladimir's English web page is http://www.vladimir-russia.info/
Suzdal
The “Golden Ring" city of Suzdal is one of my favorite Golden Ring cities. Suzdal is truly a photographer's dream, almost as if stepping into a fairytale land. The history of Suzdal dates back to 1024. For centuries Suzdal functioned as the capital of several Russian principalities. Over time, Suzdal became a religious center with a large number of monasteries and churches which today make up a large part of Suzdal's architectural sites. During the spring and summer, artists with easels are a common sight. Suzdal has over 300 architectural sites and in 1964, Suzdal was made into a town-museum and tourist center. The sites of Suzdal include the Nativity Cathedral built in the 1200's can be found in Suzdal's Kremlin, the Saint Boris and the Saint Gleb Church built in the 1100's, and the Intercession Convent and the Monastery of our Savior and St Euthimius Monastery which are included in the list of the World Cultural Heritage of UNESCO. Suzdal even has tours you can take on horseback. Suzdal is where you can easily find hotels to stay overnight. There are many small hotels with 5-20 rooms. Suzdal's English language webpage is: http://suzdal.org/en/contacts/contacts
Kostroma
Kostroma was first recorded in chronicles in the year 1213, but historians believe Kostroma was founded by Yury Dolgoruky in the late 1100's along the banks of the Volga River. Kostroma served as a place of retreat for the grand dukes when enemies besieged Moscow in 1382, 1408, and 1433. Kostroma was sacked many times by invaders, Mongels in 1238, Novgorod pirates and twice by the Poles. It took a 6-month siege to expel the Poles from the Ipatievsky Monastery, Russian monasteries are famous for their strength. The monastery was built in the early 1300's by an ancestor of the Godunov family. The Romanovs had the lovely Trinity cathedral rebuilt in 1652.
If you walk along Sovetskaya street to Susaninskaya square, you will see the long, white rows of the Trading Arcades built in the 1700's and still in use today. Walk towards the Volga River, you will see many stalls used for trading different kinds of goods: 'flower,' 'milk,' 'vegetable,' 'tobacco,' 'sweets' and 'fish' arcades among others.
The fire tower was built in 1823-1827. Inside the tower there used to be rooms for storing water canisters, a stable and quarters for the firemen, and an observation deck on top of the tower. Today the fire tower is a history museum of the fire department. Make sure to go to the observation deck for a great view of the city and to take some fantastic photos of the city and landscape.
The 5-domed Epiphany Cathedral built in 1559 was the first stone building in Kostroma. The Ipatievsky monastery survives almost completely intact, with its walls, towers, belfry built in the 1500's and its cathedral which was built in the 1600's. Most of Kostroma's churches were destroyed during the Soviet rule. One old church to survive is the “Golden Age" built in the 1600's by a man who resolved that unearned gold was the devil's gift and decided to spend it on building a church. Two other temples built in the 1600's, can be seen on the opposite side of the Volga River. English webpages of Kostroma: http://www.kostroma.net/eng/ and
http://www.kostroma.ru/kostroma/kostroma.htm
Yaroslavl
Yaroslavl is one of the “Golden Ring's" larger cities and one of Russia's longest inhabited areas. Since ancient times there were settlements of Finn-Ugor tribes who intermixed with the Slavs at the junction of Volga and Kotorosl rivers. Vikings also settled here in the 8th and 9th centuries. In the beginning of the 11th century Yaroslav Mudry built a fortress here, which he called 'Yaroslavl'. Because of its river location Yaroslavl became a major trading center. Spassky Monastery was built in the 1100's at the place where the Kotorosl River intersects with the Volga River. The monastery was surrounded by strong walls since monasteries also served as fortresses, parts of the 400 year old wall can still be seen today. Spaso-Preoprazhensky Cathedral which is almost 500 years old with foundations that are 800 years old is the oldest building in Yaroslavl.
Next to the monastery there's the Epiphany church, built in the end of the 1600's. The white Church of Ilia the Prophet with five green domes, was built in 1647-1650, and is considered to be one of the main sights in Yaroslavl. Along the Volga River embankment there are many old houses, churches, an art museum, and a history museum. Since Yaroslavl is a fairly large city, you will find at least nine hotels here. Yaroslavl Region's English language webpage: http://www.adm.yar.ru/english/
Rostov The Great
Rostov The Great is one of the older towns in Russia and another of my favorite “Golden Ring" cities. Rostov is younger than Sarskoye Gorodishche, which some historians believe was the capital of the Merya tribe, while other historians believe Rostov was an important Viking trading post and fortress which guarded the Volga River trade route. First mentioned in the year of 862 as an important settlement, Rostove was by the 1200's the capital city of one of the most prominent Russian principalities, the Muscovy principality in 1474.
The central square of Rostov is where the huge Assumption Cathedral is found. It is unknown just when the present building was built; sometime in the mid 1500's historians believe. The lower sections of the cathedral walls are dated to the 1100's. The heavy Bell-tower was built in the 1600's. The cathedral's bells are some of the largest and most famous in Russia; each bell is named after important people in the Russian Orthodox Church. An area between the cathedral square and the lake was chosen by Iona Sysoevich as a place for his fairy-tale home and residence. The building of the home was carried out between 1667 and 1694. Important buildings include the decorative Savior Church-na-Senyakh built in 1675, the plain Church of St Gregory built in 1670, and the resurrection churches of St John the Apostle built in 1683 and the Resurrection of Christ built in 1670. The church's residence, mistakenly referred to as the kremlin, also includes eleven towers, several palaces, several small belfries and the small resurrection Church of Our Lady of Smolensk built in 1693.
The cathedral and the four tall Kremlin churches were copied throughout the city. This is clearly seen in the Savior-on-the-Market church and the main Cathedral of the Nativity convent, both built in the 1600's. The oldest church in the city was consecrated to St Isidore the Blessed in 1565. Legend says that Ivan the Terrible had the architect executed, because his church was smaller than the earlier church here. Remember the legend that Ivan the Terrible had the architects of St. Basil's Cathedral in Red Square blinded so they could not design another church as beautiful as St. Basils again.
Rostov the Great's Kremlin is flanked by two famous monasteries, both facing Lake Nero. To the right from the Kremlin you will find the Abraham monastery, built in the 11th century and one of the oldest monasteries found in Russia. Its cathedral, ordered by Ivan the Terrible in 1553 to celebrate his conquest of Kazan. The Yakovlevsky monastery, found on the left of Rostov the Great Kremlin on the town's outskirts, has been regarded as a shrine to St Dmitry of Rostov. The monastery was built mainly in the late 1700s and early 1800s. There are also two churches built in the 1600s, dedicated to the Conception of St Anna and to the Transfiguration of Our Savior.
In the area of Rostov you can find many old structures still standing. For example, an old wooden church built in 1687-89 can be found in the village of Ishnia. One of the best preserved monasteries in Russia, dedicated to Saints Boris and Gleb, is found in Borisoglebsky, not far west of the town. This monastery was a favorite of Ivan the Terrible who personally took part in the construction of towered walls and bell-tower around an even older cathedral. The only addition made to the monastery after Ivan the Terrible's death is a fine resurrection cathedral, commissioned by the metropolitan Iona Sysoevich. This is a web page for Rostov the Great since I could not find an English language version of the city's web page http://www.adm.yar.ru/english/section.aspx?section_id=163
Sergiev Posad
Even though Sergiev Posad is not one of the "Golden Ring's" oldest cities, it is indeed one of the most picturesque cities which holds a important place in Russian history and one of the most interesting locations in the vicinity of Moscow.It is only about 70 km (45 miles) to the northeast of Moscow and a 90 minute bus trip. Sergiev Posad grew up around the Trinity-St. Sergius Lavra Monastery built in 1340 by St. Sergius of Radonezh. This monastery has been the most important spiritual center for Russia for over 600 years and still in operation today by the Russian Orthodox Church after being return to the church after the end of communist rule. The monastery also serves as an architectural museum and is listed on the World Heritage List of UNESCO World Heritage Center list. As the town's name, hints to St. Sergius, who had strong religious ideas. The Soviet Bolsheviks changed the name first to just Sergiyev in 1919, and then to Zagorsk in 1930, in memory of the revolutionary Vladimir Zagorsky. The original name was restored in 1991 when communist rule ended. Of interest, you can find the monastery's founder Sergius remains in the Cathedral of the Trinity.
A number of important historical episodes unfolded in Sergiev Posad. Ivan the Terrible's 1552 capture of Kazan was partly done under the advice of the monastery's head, Abbot Bassyan. The monastery was rewarded with a new fabulous church afterwards. In the early 1600's, the monastery was able to withstood a 16 month siege by the Poles even after Moscow had been occupied. Russian monasteries are famous for being strong fortresses. Peter the Great later would take refuge here in the monastery during the Streltsy revolt that targeted him and his family. He later provided funding for the monastery to show thanks for the shelter provided him. Later his daughter Elizabeth bestowed the monastery with the title of lavra, the highest religious rank for an Orthodox monastery, only four monasteries in Russia have this order. The monastery also was the residence of the Patriarch from the end of World War 2 until the fall of Communism. Now the Danilov Monastery in Moscow serves as the official residence of the Patriarch of the Russian Orthodox Church. The best English language web page I could find on Sergiev Posad http://russiatoptravel.com/the-golden-ring-of-russia/sergiev-posad-2.html
I have only been able to give you a small hint of what you can find in the various “Golden Ring" cities of Moscow. You can enjoy festivals and celebrations, if you time your visits right. Russians love to celebrate and party and there are numerous celebrations and holidays each year in different cities and villages. If you've ever seen the New Years celebration in Red Square, then you know what I mean. Russian beer is very good; take it from somebody who knows. So if you have a knack for playing Indiana Jones and doing a little exploring, the “Golden Ring" cities of Moscow will be an excellent choice.
Monastery of St. James built in the late 1300s on the banks of Lake Nero
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin built in 1222
Church of St. Nicholas built in 1695 in Yaroslavl
Russian countryside church
photo of the Suzdal countryside
Inside the Kremlin of Rostov The Great
Church of the Prophet Elijah built in 1647-50 in Yaroslavl town square
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