Panama Marine Adventures takes travelers on a journey between the seas that starts in the Caribbean port of Portobelo, traverses the Panama Canal and Lake Gatun to arrive at Fort San Lorenzo, located on a cliff at the mouth of the Chagres River the on the Atlantic. The pace is leisurely, but never slow, as we leave the cosmopolitan splendor of Panama City behind and comfortably sail back into the ancient cultures of the Darien jungle.

Our small group gathered together in Panama City for a tour of the city that is really three cities. The tour, which included an excellent lunch in the old city, was provided by Ancon Expeditions of Panama. Half of the population of Panama lives in Panama City. The relatively new skyscrapers that line the shoreline of the new city, also known as Paitilla, comprise the commercial and tourist center of the country. Towering condominiums, luxury hotels and glittering malls leave little doubt that this is a city where many of the rich and famous come to work and play.

Across the bay and a world away from the modern glitter, we visited the ruins of old Panama. Historically important as the site of frequent and fierce attacks by the Pirate Morgan, there is little left of this orderly, walled and strategically located city, except an interesting collection of ruins. Situated on the bay, it offers a magnificent view of the modern Panama City. Casco Viejo, which grew after the destruction of the original old city, is the traditional “old city” where tourists wander and buildings crumble and not much changes. The city is completely walled and has two main gates and a castle. As we stroll the streets we are transported back several centuries. Very little has been done to restore the old city and buildings regularly collapse from the ravages of weather and termites. Surrounding the old city are several dubious neighborhoods. These areas are vibrant and active but not recommended for tourists.

Following our half-day tour of the city, Ancon Expeditions, provided us with a small bus and we made the interesting two-hour trip to the port of Portobello, where we boarded the Panama Marine Adventures’ small catamaran, the Discovery

The Discovery is a 33 meter, two year old catamaran which has eight queen and four twin cabins. Passengers are limited to 24 which ensures that everyone can enjoy the closeness of a true exploration cruise. The dining area, bar and lounge are located on the upper deck which is fitted with floor to ceiling “glass walls” which provide a spectacular view. Each cabin has individual climate control, bathrooms with separate shower and wall to wall windows. Several outdoor eating and lounging areas accommodate those individuals who smoke. On the lower level is a unique platform that lowers kayakers gently into the water and also retrieves them in perfect safety. I found that this small, compact vessel offered all of the amenities and none of the congestion of larger ships. And oh yes, the food was fantastic and the crew and guides were both friendly and well trained.

The tour of the quaint town of Portobelo, only several hours drive from Panama City, took us back in history. We explored the fortifications, shopped and visited the old church of San Felipe which is the sanctuary of the Black Christ.

Early the next morning we entered the Chagres River which was used by the conquistadors to move their gold across the Isthmus of Panama. We moved on to position the Discovery within the breakwater of the Panama Canal for our transit of the Gatun Locks to Gatun Lake. The Gatun locks are actually a series of three locks each rising approximately 28 feet. Work is still going on in the Gatun area which will eventually allow the fresh water from Lake Gatun to be recycled and not lost. The transit takes about two hours and is a “must” photo opportunity as ships of all sizes from all over the world approach, enter and transit the canal.

Lake Gatun is a man-made lake which is dotted with a number of islands which were formerly mountain peaks. We stopped to explore Barro Colorade, an island where the Smithsonian’s Tropical Research Center is located. We were led through the lush tropical jungle in search of birds, monkeys, sloths, iguanas and crocodiles by one of the scientists working at the center.

Following our transit of the Pedro Miguel Locks and Miraflores Locks we sailed towards Contadora in the Pearl Islands where we stopped to swim before navigating to a secluded portion of the Chagres River. We spent the night in an isolated area surrounded by the jungle and the sound of the howler monkeys. In the morning we were met by a group of Embera Indians in their longboat canoe. They carried us up the Changes to their secluded village in the Darien jungle where we were transported back 600 years to a place that not many have had the privilege of experiencing. The Darien area cannot be reached and traversed by land. After motoring up-river for an hour or so, we saw the village emerge from the jungle, as if by magic. The natives are master crafters of cocobolo wood carvings and basketry. The children met us at the river and held our hands as we made our way down the jungle path to the village. These proud people are autonomous from Panama and have been able to maintain their traditions and lifestyles as they were before the Spaniards colonized the region. Only through photos can one begin to capture the color and flavor of this secluded area. For me, it was the highlight of the trip.

The following day we made an unscheduled stop at another Embera village. About half of our group opted to walk several hours through the jungle and along the shoreline to the village while the rest of us arrived by sea in the versatile, small transportation boats that the Discovery used for shore expeditions.

All good things must eventually come to an end and after a delightful week of cruising, we found ourselves back in Panama City. I have covered only a small portion of our activities, but we had experienced some of the history, diversity and natural beauty that is Panama and had explored areas that can only be reached on a small cruise ship. It was magic.

Contact Information: Website: www.pmatours.net Email: infodiscovery@pmatours.net Toll-free: 888-836-0102

Copa airlines flies direct to Panama City from a number of cities. Check their website for participating cities at www.copaair.com.

Ancon Expeditions: www.anconexpeditions.com, e-mail info@anconexpeditions or call 011-507-269-9415.

To locate a hotel in Panama City try HotelsCombined.com.