Menorca, the Spanish island located in the Mediterranean sea 125 miles from Barcelona, is not promoted like its sister islands of Majorca or Ibiza. Majorca, just 25 miles distant, is noted for its mass tourism and ever-growing expatriate population and Ibiza is famous for its expensive and expansive clubbing and yob culture. As someone once said of Ibiza: “Football hooligans have to go on holiday somewhere.”

Menorca is sedate and laid back. It is an island blessed with endless coves and bays and some of the prettiest beaches in the Mediterranean. Many of them have white sand and sparkling clear waters not seen on the Spanish mainland. Best of the beaches are on the south side of the island and we were particularly impressed with the beaches at Sant Tomas and Cala Santa Galdana.

On the north side not far from the house where we were staying was the beach at Arenal d’En Castel which was very attractive with safe bathing and water sports in a well-protected cove. All the beaches we visited had ample parking close to the beach and amazingly there were no charges levied.

Six of us had rented a house at Na Macaret on the north side of the island and a pleasant twenty five minute drive from the island’s airport of Mahon. Driving around the island is a joy. Most of the roads have good quality surfaces and the sign posting is good. The only time we found that not to be the case was in the town of Alaloir where we circled through areas, ancient and modern, for a long time until eventually finding our way to the main east west highway which links the old capital of Ciutadella to the new capital of Mahon. Mahon has been the capital of Menorca since 1721 when the British, in control of the island at the time, changed it because of the vast harbor and its strategic location.

To learn a little of the island’s history and see the sights we took a glass bottom boat tour from Cala Fons, the bay area of Es Castell, a picturesque village a few kilometers east of Mahon. Peter, brusque and British, co-owner of the tour boat and the quayside restaurant Dinkums accepted our €10 per traveler fare and told us to report at noon for a 12.30pm departure.

Our vessel headed into the harbor – the second largest natural harbor in the world. The first is Pearl Harbor. First we headed out to sea to explore a small reef and watched fish at play through the glass panels. Our trip into the city of Mahon revealed numerous fine residences, holiday homes for the rich and famous. It is said that it was in one of these that Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton had at one time resided, but there seems little to back the story. The trip was well narrated in Spanish, English and German and certainly worth the fee.

Well worth a visit is the fish market in the center of Mahon where we toured more than a dozen stalls where vendors offered their morning catch for sale. The varieties of fish on sale included grouper, hake, sea bream, sea bass and numerous shell fish including squid, prawns, crabs and a few exclusive and expensive lobsters. We purchased a three and a half kilo sea bream for $60 which was expertly cleaned and prepared for us. Like many things in Menorca the prices were higher than the Spanish mainland but the quality was good. The fish was filled with herbs and spices, topped with lemon and garlic and placed on the barbecue. It provided more than sufficient for six hungry travelers with sufficient over to be served cold later with salad.

The fish market is open every morning except Mondays. Spanish fishermen do not normally head out to sea on a Sunday. Adjoining this building is the fruit and vegetable market, a perfect place to see the variety of produce the island generates.

Two restaurants we particularly enjoyed were the Acuario near our rental house in Na Macaret where waiter Jose proudly told stories of his island home. He was sad that it was the most expensive place to live in Spain but happy that he did not have to work anywhere else in the country. A good range of dishes – particularly good was the black rice with squid and roast shoulder of lamb – all expensive by mainland prices. The house wines were reasonably priced at €8 a bottle and much enjoyed. Expect to pay close to €40 for a complete meal.

Expect to pay a similar amount at S’Algaret on the quayside at Fornells also on the north side of the island. We had an excellent seafood paella here which was top quality and again the house wines were well priced. Also recommended is the veal stuffed with mushrooms. The restaurant is part of a hostal which offers a few air conditioned rooms nicely situated in the seaside town. At Cap de Cavalleria, just west of the town are the archeological remains of the first Roman settlement on the island.

The island is 35 miles long, has an average width of nine miles and a population of 86,000 which increases greatly during the peak summer months where tourists, mostly from Britain, come for fun and sun. The island is ideally suited for families with small children and those a little older who enjoy friendly walks along promenades. Menorca is a boat lovers’ paradise. In many of the island’s 120 coves you’ll find boats from rubber dinghies to ocean going yachts. There are numerous reefs for SCUBA or snorkel divers to enjoy.

A side trip worth making if you like good cheese is to visit one of the island farms. We found one the road from Mahon to Fornells and sampled the excellent varieties they have to offer. Using a 1,000 year old recipe the farmers produce three distinctly different cheeses. The first, which they call tender, is light in color and flavor. The second, semi-cured, has an orange rind and its texture and bite tempted us to bring a whole cheese home with us. The third, mature, has a very intense flavor.
The tourist authorities are attempting to attract visitors year round to fill the dozens of hotels and thousands of holiday homes scattered around the island. Ideas being put forward are schools for painting and walking tours for those who favor cooler weather. Best time to visit, if you want to miss the crowds is in May, early June and in September. During those periods the weather can still be very pleasant and warm enough for swimming.

New homes and hotels continue to be built but fortunately not at the alarming rate of the Costa del Sol or Costa Blanca on the Spanish mainland. The development of the island is fortunately not spoiling the idyllic countryside. The invasion of foreigners is very much centered on the urbanizations near the coast and most of those are pleasant with wide streets, nice planting and aimed at providing the tourist with a tranquil and tasteful visit. The islanders would not have it any other way. They make every effort to see that the mega, loud resorts with garish bars and discos stay away. Their efforts to stop drunken rowdiness are obvious. At the airport there is not one bar. Not many airports in the world can make that claim to fame.