Amsterdam is one of my favorite cities. The vibrant Dutch capital at the edge of the North Sea has so much to offer that it is difficult to know where to start an exploration of its picturesque canal lined neighborhoods.

For me, the choice is easy. I start all my visits with a morning café at the Amsterdam Centraal Station on Platform 2B at the aptly named 1st Klas Restaurant. I try to arrange my visits so that I arrive by overnight train from somewhere, then, I settle into one of the leather banquettes under the clocks to linger over a rich, dark roasted coffee and watch the sunrise over the distinctive twin towers and dome of St. Nicolaaskerk Catholic Church and the steep sided, tiled city roofs of the Wallen or, Red Light, District.

At times, I enjoy taking a platform-side table, drink an expresso and watch diesel switch engines shunt through the station trackage, gleaming Swiss double-decker and sleek German ICE expresses taking on passengers for their long journeys across Germany and on into Switzerland and Italy. On clear days, I can see across the curved glass wall beyond the railway platforms out to the IJ River and the passenger ferry terminal to the outer islands that are now becoming chic residential districts.

The 120 seat 1st Klas Restaurant is in the former 1st class waiting room designed by the architect P.J.H. Cuypers who also created the rest of the Central Station in 1881 (and the Rijksmuseum shortly thereafter). The restaurant’s Art Nouveau interior hasn’t changed that much since the era when it was built and is a good introduction to the style of old Amsterdam and its brown cafes. Though the restaurant, in its present form, has only been in existence 25 years, it is such a part of the urban landscape that Amsterdam locals often come to sip coffee and remake the world.

Wood paneling, high ceilings, tall windows, a parquet floor and oversize potted plants give the 1st Klas a warmth that makes me feel quite at home. Often, I like to return to the 1st Klas after a full day’s exploration and take advantage of the fine menu for a perfectly toasted Club sandwich or a full several course meal.

Though food is slightly pricey, wines (from throughout Europe and the new world) are very reasonably priced. If possible, I’ll take a place in the 30 seat central area away from the booths and coffee sippers. From there I can watch the comings and goings of locals and travelers and the long white apron clad waiters, while keeping an eye on the multiple train arrivals and departures out the platform-side windows under the three large clocks that show time in New York and Tokyo as well as Amsterdam.

The last time I dined there, I began with the fish soup, a classic with its whole chunks of fresh and flaky, locally caught fish. Then, I continued with a tomato and mozzarella mille feuille pastry with a pesto sauce. With these I drank a 2003 Verdicchio dei Castelli di jesi Luzano crispy Italian white wine from the Marches region.

After these courses, I chose the rack of lamb served with a honey and thyme sauce. On the side is a too hot but surprisingly creamy gratin dauphinoise potato dish. With this I order a half bottle of a delicious 1999 Hautes Côtes de Beaune “La Perrière” Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

Two plaster busts – of Richelieu and Epicurus -dominate their respective corners. I resist the temptation of whimsy and refuse the idea that they are winking in complicity at my gourmandize. Service is swift and informal in the egalitarian Dutch style though very professional but food quality is of the highest order.

I throw caution to the wind and close my culinary experience with an excellent crème brulée polished off with an exquisitely brewed coffee served with Leonidas chocolates and a traditional van Wees liqueur.

The entire culinary experience cost me about 65 Euros. Though this is on the high side, the food’s high quality and the wine’s finesse justify what to me was an exceptional gastronomic event.

While sipping my coffee, I can’t help thinking how pleasant it would be to finish my meal then stroll across to a CityNightLine express and tuck myself into a Wagons-Lits sleeper for an overnight journey to Florence.

The next time I’m in Amsterdam that is exactly what I’ll do.

The 1st Klas Restaurant does have a web site, but it is only in Dutch for the moment: www.restaurant1eklas.nl. Write for information: info@restaurant1eklas.nl or Grand Café 1e Klas, Centraal Station Spoor 2B, Stationsplein 15, 1012AB Amsterdam, HOLLAND.

1st Klas operating hours: Daily 8:30am -11pm for coffee, cakes, breakfast, lunch dinner and snacks but the kitchen closes at 10pm. Reservations are accepted: +31206250131 but credit cards are not.

1st Klas is located on Platform 2B inside the Centraal Station – which is accessible by trams: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, and 25 to Centraal Station

Both Amsterdam guides published by: The Rough Guide (July 2005, ISBN 1843534606) and lonely planet (March 2004, ISBN 1741040027) are good, informative, lively and reliable, though the Rough Guide has more insightful information on the Centraal Station and the trams than lp. Unfortunately, neither guide mentions the 1st Klas Restaurant.

For long distance train schedules from Amsterdam, consult Thomas Cook European Timetables: 18, 22, 28, 73 and the entire Netherlands chapter.

Please let me know what you think of this or any other of my stories: zane.katsikis@gmail.com