Ahh, Maui. So dreamy, so poetic, so right. It is an outdoor adventure playground and a haven for relaxation all in one, offering either exciting adventure activities - such as snorkeling, wind surfing, rain forest and volcano crater hiking, body surfing, road cycling and mountain biking - or endless opportunities for just lazing on one of many powder-soft, sometimes secluded beaches, letting the ocean surf, warm Pacific breezes and glorious sun place you in paradise. But is an active and explorative vacation in Maui affordable? You bet.

Situated in the middle of this natural ecstasy is the Banana Bungalow, a friendly hostel in historic Wailuku, merely 4 miles from Kahului airport in north central Maui. Built in 1945 and recently renovated, the 2-story structure offers several dorm rooms at $26/night, and 14 private rooms starting at $54/night, enabling a week’s accommodation between $180-$380.

Don’t let the word ‘hostel’ mislead you; the Banana Bungalow provides all the comforts of home, and even a few more. Adjacent to the hostel is a large indoor-outdoor common area. It includes a full kitchen, providing 3 refrigerators, all necessary cooking appliances and an outdoor barbecue, all provided free for hostel guests. This keeps eating expenses to a minimum, as all food can be purchased at national chain grocery stores in Kahului, and kept and prepared right at the hostel. Figure $30/day for food and a weekly grocery tab of $210. Jim and Christine, the hostel managers, encouraged us to help ourselves to a selection of tropical fruit outside the common area, and we enjoyed mango, banana, papaya and coconut for desserts, before lounging on the courtyard hammocks below a dozen palm trees. At the end of my hiking days, I slipped into the outdoor hot tub for a half hour of water massage; with a piece of fruit in hand, light winds caressing me, and the gentle chirping of exotic birds in the trees above, I couldn’t help feeling like I was the only person in the world while relaxing outside the hostel.


Free tours depart daily aboard 15-passenger vans to choice locations that meet the travelling desires of all (the hostel management ask that a small fee be given to the tour guide each day, typically $5). Amicable, knowledgeable guides provide interesting background information and encourage friendly conversation among all the guests during the tours, promoting a relaxing, enjoyable experience each day.

I arrived on a Sunday morning in time for the tour to Big and Little Makena Beaches. Leaving at 1:00, we travelled through the narrow Maui valley to the southwestern shore of the island, passing fields of pineapple and sugar cane, scenic golf courses surrounded by palm trees and short walls of lava rock, and spectacular beach front resorts, before arriving at Big Makena Beach after a leisurely 30 minute drive.
At the beach, we were presented with several options. Our guide Sarah set up a volleyball net for those looking for a group activity on the soft Makena sand; but hostel boogie boards and the warm Pacific waters drew me and several others into the ocean to swim and snorkel close to shore. Of course, the tropical breezes and warm sun enticed me to simply stretch out on a towel on the sand, letting the soothing sound of gently tumbling waves lull me into a relaxing snooze on the beach.

A little exploration brought a surprise that you may want to be part of. At the west end of Makena beach, we climbed over the lava flow to the crescent-shaped Little Makena Beach, which was fabulous for body surfing and snorkeling. But we also learned that it is one of only a few beaches in all of Hawaii that is 'clothing-optional'. By sunset, a large group of nearly 200 people gathered along the beach - some clothed, some semi-nude and others completely in the buff - to dance to the music of bongo drums and rattlers, a tradition continuing from its 1960's origin. Of course, the decision to immerse yourself in the crowd or watch from a distance is yours; but either way, it is an unforgettable experience. Not bad for the price of a bag lunch and a nominal tip.

Monday brought the "Swinging Bridges" hike, a 4 hour trek into the rain forest of the West Maui mountains, mere minutes from the hostel. Leaving at 9:00, we were led into the dense jungle of the Waikee River valley, where we encountered bamboo forests, Taro trees, fruit-bearing trees such as guava and banana, and even brightly colored, aromatic ginger flowers. Along the way, we were blessed with stunning views of expansive rain forest valleys and high waterfalls, and crossed 2 swinging bridges that were nearly 75 feet in length, suspended 8 feet above the Waikee River.

At the end of the trail, we jumped from a 10-foot high ledge into a chilly yet refreshing pool for an invigorating swim before returning. Ryan led Monday’s tour and challenged us to swim the 25-foot length right up to the falls, even offering a demonstration. Give it a try when you go, but if you don't make it, don't be too discouraged - few people do.

Back at the hostel by 1:00, the day was only half begun, and Ryan added an afternoon trip to the popular Baldwin Beach, a few miles south of Kahului. On the windward side of the island, we sunbathed, of course; but the more adventurous and daring ones – myself included - chose to swim and body-surf on high, fast waves that continually battered the shore. If your swimming skills are good, and you don't mind 5 foot waves, Baldwin Beach is a blast! You have the whole afternoon to play in the water, dream on the sand, or simply stroll along the beach, making the entire day well worth a $5 tip and food.

Tuesday's tour was a favorite of mine, featuring the scenic Road to Hana drive. Join the hostel group if you'd like, but I recommend renting a car (rent a car for $80 for a week; get 3 or 4 others to come and split the cost) to experience the tour at your own pace, stopping whenever and wherever you want. Leave early, though, and bring plenty of food, fluids and film, as this is a full day's tour.

The drive presents over 50 bridges, 550 turns and many 1-lane stretches along only 45 miles of highway. But it is equally famous for its many hikes, lovely waterfalls, exotic fruit stands, gorgeous rocky shoreline and "Jurassic Park"-like inland. We stopped frequently and enjoyed the entire trip at our own pace, realizing that everything we saw that day truly represented the image of 'tropical paradise' that Maui is known for.

Some of the highlights of the drive included: (1)a stop at Ho'okipa Beach, near the town of Pa'ia, world renown for its wind surfing – we walked onto black crinkly lava and watched several wind surfers ride the powerful waves to shore; (2)walking through caves and along the black sand beach at Wainapanapa State Park – the sand is actually crushed remnants of Mt. Haleakala’s lava flows; (3)strolling through the historic and traditional Hawaiian town of Hana, and visiting the Hotel Hana-Maui, famous for its guest celebrity visits, and the lava stone cross of the Fagan Memorial atop Lyon's Hill - the cross was erected as a memorial to Paul Fagan, who established the Hana Ranch and often sat atop Lyon's Hill, his favorite spot from which to relax and enjoy the Pacific Ocean; (4)strolling from the highway a few dozen feet to the 100 foot Wailua Falls, which empty into a small pool surrounded by lush forest and tropical flowers – 2 of us stood in the mist of the falls, a refreshing pause in the shade of encircling vines and tropical trees and flowers; and (5)walking among the "Seven Sacred Pools" of Ohe'o Gulch, small terraced pools surrounded by vegetated and cascading walls of a historic lava flow that emptied from the eastern shore of Maui, near the southeast entrance to Haleakala National Park.

Ninety-nine percent of visitors who drive the road turn back at the park entrance. But we continued along the south corner of the island over 10 miles of unpaved road that presented stunning ocean scenery, precarious cliff-side driving, the grave site memorial of Charles Lindbergh, and an unparalleled sunset view from a short rise at the southernmost tip of Maui. One note of caution: rental cars are not insured along this stretch of the highway, so make sure the conditions are suitable! My new friend Tommy, who had rented the car – a tiny Metro – insisted, “Don’t worry, we’ll make it through, no problem!” The rest of us, however, felt a little uneasy as we bounced and crawled along the winding highway.

Fortunately, we made it through and witnessed a glorious sunset from the southernmost tip of the island before continuing through a short stretch of free ranging cattle fields along the southern flank of Mt. Haleakala, and the return trip through the upcountry.

Undoubtedly, the Road to Hana is a world-class drive, with its picturesque and serene waterfalls, lush valleys, and continually changing and spectacular ocean vistas all appearing around nearly every corner. Of course, with the hostel, it’s a free tour, not counting food and a tip, but the drive is still well worth a shared rental, a bit of gas and food.

Wednesday's trip left at 1:00 for the lava flow formation known as Black Rock, situated along the gorgeous Ka'anapali Beach on west Maui, which separates 5-star hotels from the Pacific Ocean. The afternoon was set aside for snorkeling, and after stopping at Snorkel Bob's to rent gear for $7 - bring your own if you’ve got it - we enjoyed several species of exotic fish, and were captivated by a large green sea turtle that joined us and swam below, an occasional and fortunate occurrence. If you're feeling daring, climb Black Rock and jump from over 15 feet into the sheltered warm water; afterwards just stretch out across your towel and enjoy the afternoon.

In the evening, the tour stops at the historic and pretty Lahaina town; like the rest of Maui, it has a very gentle and friendly atmosphere. Enabled to explore on our own, Tommy and I strolled among the many art and unique souvenir stores along Front Street.
Be sure to stop at the world's second largest banyan tree - the largest being in India - on Front Street across from the visitor's center. Planted in 1873 by sheriff William Owen Smith, the tree covers nearly an acre in area, and contains 12 aerial roots, in addition to its core trunk, that help support the massive sprawl of branches above. On the ground, Hawaiian children performed dances and songs and at sunset, lights were turned on below its extensive lower branches - a beautiful sight indeed!

Walk to the nearby fisherman's wharf in Lahaina Harbor and visit the 1840 Old Lahaina Lighthouse and a replica of the Carthaginian brig, where you can board to view films on whaling, an industry of historical significance in Lahaina.

The schedule for Thursday includes another snorkeling excursion, this time to the "Aquarium", an aptly-named tropical fish bonanza with over 70 varieties of fish, as well as eels, turtles and the occasional reef shark, along the northeast shore of Maui. Be prepared, however, since there is a half-mile walk over a lava flow to reach the water.

I chose to explore on my own that day, and joined three others in a drive to the southwest corner of the island, not far past Makena, to La Perouse Bay. Just prior to the bay, you can actually drive a short distance over the island's most recent lava flow - 1790. From the parking lot, we walked gingerly over jagged lava stones into sparkling snorkeling water; we saw even more fish species than at Black Rock, and were treated to many corals on the ocean floor, all of which glistened colorfully in the clear water.

Spend the rest of the day backtracking to sample a few of nearly a dozen beaches on Maui's western shore; north of Kihei, we found a secluded spot along a long stretch of beach, sat back and watched the sun slip into the ocean.

Friday's tour led us into the lush Iao Valley State Park for a second rain forest hike, 3miles west of Wailuku. Ryan provided anecdotal stories of the area's apparently bloody history – clashes between missionaries and native Hawaiians - and led us to up-close views of the Iao Needle, a 1200 foot stone pinnacle covered in moss. We enjoyed sweet guava fruit along the trail, and took several pictures of the velvety green park and its mountain and ocean surroundings.

The week's final tour was also likely the most spectacular, because of its uniqueness. On Saturday, we drove through the pastures and exotic flower farms along the Haleakala Highway in the upcountry - and then its switchback incline through pine trees - before arriving at the lava flow-covered desert summit, beside the Haleakala Volcano crater. From the Visitor Center, we gazed out into the massive and eerie yet intriguing landscape atop the great volcano. It resembled descriptions of the surface of the moon or of Mars, and despite minimal vegetation, its colors were still plentiful and gorgeous; various shades of reds and light browns danced along the crater’s walls and into the expansive landscape, especially as we meandered down and through it.
The tour took us nearly 12 miles through the crater and back to the summit, with occasional stops to eat - once below and once above the clouds - and then again at the Holua cabin and campsite, one of 3 cabins on the crater. Early on the trail, we meandered through a collection of rare Silversword plants, whose silvery narrow petals grow in the shape of a ball for 50 years before flowering once and then dying. After a final break at Holua cabin, we continued through short grasses and shrubs to an ascending narrow switchback trail prior to a final climb to the summit, where we arrived in time for the sunset above a pillowy ocean of rolling clouds.
Several trails wander throughout the crater, and if you explore a bit on your own, you may find the ‘Bottomless Pit’. Legend has it that this narrow opening actually reaches the ocean.

For the cost of food and a small tip, this is a rare and striking experience. Be sure, however, to pack warm clothing, sunscreen and plenty of food and water. At 10,000 feet, the wind howls atop Haleakala, and brings below-zero temperatures by nightfall.

Several of the tours, especially the Road to Hana, may require more time to be fully appreciated, and I recommend renting a vehicle with new friends and driving the highway on your own. However, the tour guides and the destination selection provided at the Banana Bungalow enable visitors to experience much of what Maui has to offer while still adhering to a budget. A round trip, including accommodation, food, miscellaneous expenditures and a week of exploration in Maui can easily be attained for under $1,000.

For further information, visit the hostel website, which offers links to diverse activities and other travel organizations on Maui, at www.mauihostel.com.

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